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'Bolter
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Hello,

1956 3100. 261 engine t5 transmission, 3.90 rear

I have a disk break kit I was contemplating instaling on my truck. The issue is, the kit uses 5 lug rotars from a late 70s camaro. So I would have 5 lug front 6 lug rear.

Anyone know of 5 lug axles so I can replace the 6 lug ones?

I want to keep the original housing.


Rock49 aka C-Rodg
work in progress
1956 Chevy 3100
261 engine
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Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
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If your talking replacement axles for your existing rear axle housing, no one seems to be offering anything on those on the web. In doing a quick web search, I've found a lot of folks suggest taking your original axles shafts to a local axle company and have them weld and redrill for the 5 bolt pattern.

What I don't know about this option is if the 5 lug rotors in the kit you're contemplating will fit over the hub ends of your existing axle or not without further modifications??? headscratch

The next alternative is to find a later 5-lug rear axles to replace your existing axle entirely. Lots and lots of previous conversations in Driveline threads that talk about what others have done with their trucks. wink


~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
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Gdads
I originaly had the disk breaks on a 1949 fleetline project. Based on what I have seen in the manuals the 49 (fleetline) and 56 (3100) spindals have the same dimensions. what I dont know is if the backing plates have the same bolt patterns.

Another posibility I have contemplated is to find 6 lug rotars.

The Goal is to keep it as simple a posible and minimize the snowball effect.

If all else fails.

I dont realy think keeping the drum brakes would be an issue for driving in the Kansas City area.


Rock49 aka C-Rodg
work in progress
1956 Chevy 3100
261 engine
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'Bolter
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I think they had kits for 6 lug , would be easier than changing the rear axles . Maybe all the parts are the same except for the rotors would be something to look into
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IMG_7084.png (1000.37 KB, 125 downloads)


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
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'Bolter
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I did the 5 lug disc brake conversion on my 56 several years ago as I didn't find any
suitable 6 lug conversions at the time. I also had the rear axles re-drilled as Dan has
stated. Everything has worked well with this conversion.

There now are several aftermarket suppliers offering 6 lug conversion kits. I have installed
them on similar trucks for customers and they were able to use the stock 15" wheels.

Fred


1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes
1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes
2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans
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Lots of 6 lug kits at the usual vendors. Don't forget to factor in a dual chamber master cylinder and associated parts.


'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
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Rfs56trk
Thanks for the feedback on your experience with the swap I will do some inquiries as to cost.

Since I already have the 5 lug kit, It would depend on what it cost to have my axles drilled for 5 lug before I purchase a 6 lug kit.


Rock49 aka C-Rodg
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1956 Chevy 3100
261 engine
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Rock 49 ,check first to see about replacement rotors with 6 bolt .the kit I pictured above looks like it don’t come with the hubs anyway so I am assuming you use the origional hubs .Does your 5 bolt kit have hubs or were those extra ? If you can use your kit with the origional hubs 6 bolt and just buy new rotors I think that would be the most affordable way. And yes I have heard that you have to watch to make sure the rotors will fit well with the older rims .I can’t see the rotors between the 5 lug and 6 lug being more in diameter.


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I installed a 6 lug kit from CPP and it does use the original hubs.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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My 54 project truck came with 6 lug disc brakes on the front

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Kevinsky
The kit I have uses late 70a GM rotars. the hub and rotar are one piece. Im going to do some research and see if the same inner and outer bearings are used on 6 lug rotars, If so that may point me to a possable option.


Rock49 aka C-Rodg
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261 engine
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'Bolter
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👍 that would be great if they interchange


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The 5 bolt, late 70s/early 80s rotor kit I helped install used an adapter that slipped over the spindle to locate the inner bearing (and therefor the hub/rotor) the proper distance in and out on the spindle. I doubt that a 6 lug rotor would just "happen" to fit unless you were Jerry (Hotrod Lincoln).


'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
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So he would have to check if the spacer is in the kit for the 5 bolt rotor and if it is in the kit if it would work on a 6 bolt rotor .


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
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Moser has saved my bacon many times. amazing service. Same day service and good prices even on one-offs. Made in house in Indiana. https://www.moserengineering.com/
Attachments
axles 10.jpg (220.29 KB, 108 downloads)
axles 3.jpg (342.94 KB, 105 downloads)

Last edited by Gdads51; 06/02/2026 2:29 AM. Reason: removed tracking from web link

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I Have the complete kit with the spacer. As for finding a 6 lug that would swap in. I too have my doubts. But with over 40 years worth GM disk breaks to look into, theres a chance.

Mick53
Thank you for the link.


Rock49 aka C-Rodg
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1956 Chevy 3100
261 engine
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Originally Posted by Rock49
I Have the complete kit with the spacer. As for finding a 6 lug that would swap in. I too have my doubts. But with over 40 years worth GM disk breaks to look into, theres a chance.

Mick53
Thank you for the link.
No problem. They cut my axel tubes and welded the right flanges on for my brakes. made me one-off 1500 hp axels. Installed them in my Frankland Quick Change. Took me in back and mocked up my brakes for me after drilling the rotors for the race lugs. All in 5 hours. They only charged me for the axels and flanges $685. No labor. I tried to give them more money but they would not take it.

Last edited by mick53; 06/02/2026 1:27 PM.

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Crusty Old Sarge
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Any decent machine Shop should be able to re-drill your rear axles to accommodate a 5 lug pattern, the same with your drums. As long as the center hole in your wheel is the same size you should have no problems.


~ Craig
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Originally Posted by TUTS 59
Any decent machine Shop should be able to re-drill your rear axles to accommodate a 5 lug pattern, the same with your drums. As long as the center hole in your wheel is the same size you should have no problems.
I had the idea years ago to make a 5 bolt truck. Sent rear axles to Moser whose tech told us that after welding up old holes, material too hard to properly re-drill. Sent them to Jerry (HRL0 and he tried for awhile and I think finally decided this was a correct statement. We abandoned the project. In my opinion, the custom new axle approach may be best. I am going to learn to live with 6 lugs.

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Tuts and Greg.
thanks for the feedback.

I received a Hollander interchange covering 54-66. gona see what it tells me.


Rock49 aka C-Rodg
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1956 Chevy 3100
261 engine
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Insomniac
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You can get 6 bolt to 5 bolt adapters. They are spacers which would widen the track; that may be a good thing. You can find them easily with a Google search.

I can't comment on the quality of the adapters or if they are legal where you live.


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I have a little experience with those as well. My dad had installed a set on the truck before I ever drove it. They space the wheels out about an inch on each side. Not bad on rear axles, but they cause even more road wander on the front. Also, they bolt on without studs using nuts on the original 6 lugs that are recessed in holes that will need a very thin wall socket to tighten. Then the 5 studs screw in. You have to pay attention each time you remove wheels to make sure studs are fully screwed back in before installing wheels. The studs have a tendency to back out and eventually, will not have enough threads to hold them. They work well but require a little discipline to maintain.


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