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Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 156
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 156
Great reading from folks with transmission troubles.
My 3 speed trans, (3 on the tree), shifts ok with sometimes grind...bad synchronizers? I can deal with that, but if I coast in gear, I am getting an obnoxious noise. It is hard to describe, but kinda whiney, lower toned, and loud. Shifting into neutral quiets the noise a small amount. Recently, its gotten worse.

I do have the torque tube setup.
I could just replace the trans, but trying to find one, preferably rebuilt, is questionable.
I would also be taking a chance its a trans problem. Maybe differential?

Anyone else with a similar issue?


54 Chevy 3100 Deluxe 3 speed on column. Keeping original as possible but changed to 12 volt system.
JB Weld..."I put that stuff on everything"
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,067
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,067
I just had my truck on the road, and it has a whine in first and second (a little different in drive or coast in each gear,) but it disappears once I get in top gear. I recall it being pretty typical for these old 3-speeds, and I'm not going to worry too much about it.

If your noise happens in all gears if may be either an input or main output bearing, and in neutral that takes the output bearing (and possibly the differential if you're moving) out of the picture. Repairing the input bearing is a pretty easy task.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 156
Originally Posted by klhansen
Repairing the input bearing is a pretty easy task.

Accelerating in any gear seems normal. It is when I let off the gas in gear that the noise is really "bad." So it could very well be the input bearing then.

Being non-mechanical or as some say, a parts replacer, I'm willing to hassle pulling the trans out, but I would have to check with a local trans shop for rebuild. One already said that there are no more old timers left that work manuals....Really??? I may search a bit for rebuilt or for a known good working one.


54 Chevy 3100 Deluxe 3 speed on column. Keeping original as possible but changed to 12 volt system.
JB Weld..."I put that stuff on everything"
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,067
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,067
Does the noise get bad when decelerating in any gear? If so, maybe pull the differential cover and take a look at the differential. I would bet if there are metal flakes in the oil, then you've found your issue.

Rebuilding a differential isn't for the faint of heart. But transmissions are basically inspecting and replacing parts (some are unobtanium, however.)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,497
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,497
Joe, here's something to keep in mind (no matter whether you're looking at transmission or rear end gear noises). When you're accelerating, force to the gears is being applied in one specific direction. When you are decelerating, force is being applied in the opposite direction. This I realize does not answer any questions per se, but it does give you a hint. Long use of an an old transmission or rear end causes gears and shafts to develop very distinct wear patterns. It might be tempting to say "well, acceleration wear and deceleration wear will more or less even out", but in my experience acceleration wear is the more severe of the two...for what I think is an obvious reason. More constant applied force/resistance and all. Anyhow, listen carefully and see if maybe you can remove the transmission cover, get down on the floorboard and use one of the cheap stethoscope things to listen better as another person drives. Just be careful doing that.

Also in my experience and not many seem to catch this...I have seen several of these old trucks where the cab is sitting right straight on the frame. Very common as I said. What happens is over a span of 70 or so years the rubber pads compress to the point where there is no more noise isolation between the cab and the frame. When that happens, any vibration or noise coming from the frame (and there will be plenty) goes into the cab where the cab acts exactly like the body of a guitar and amplifies it. How to fix? Two ways you can do this. Loosen the front end and remove the nuts from the two bolts holding the front of the cab to the frame, jack up one side of the front of the cab a wee bit and slip pieces of pvc shower liner material cut square with a U shaped center cut until you can see just a little slit between the cab mount and the frame when you lower that side of the cab and replace the nuts on the two bolts and tighten them when you're through. Or remove the bolts one at a time and replace the rubber pads with new ones. Then tighten the front end and you should have improved things. Point I'm making here is that your old transmission or differential might be making normal noises for their age, etc but you may be hearing them more loudly than you need to. These trucks were never really engineered to be whisper quiet but they were pretty nice when they were new. Good luck!


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end

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