The Stovebolt Site Forums Welcome! Welcome Centre Do It Yourself (DITY) Gallery 1952 Chevy pickup - "Learning as I go"

Glad to be here. I bought my truck eight years ago and basically parked it.

Stock as far as I know except 12 volt conversion, and I put an electric fuel pump on it right after buying it.

Not sure if engine is original. Doubtful.

I have more time these days and want to put it back on the road. Just needs a little TLC, I hope.

I remember it pulling hard to one direction under braking. I want to do a good inspection and adjustment on brakes.

Needs a new set of tires.

Looking forward to getting some good advice and meet new people.

Sounds like you have a plan, so to offer help in tackling your plan, give this thread a read if you haven't already. It will help you ask questions in the best places so we can share knowledge and get the greeting and meeting going.

Truck looks like a solid great find and looks like a PO (Previous Owner) swapped out the original engine for a later Chevy 6 (1963 and later). If you want to discuss more on that topic, post in the Engine Shop forum and we can help you identify exactly what you have if you don't know already.

Looking forward to your questions in the forums to offer help as you find its needed.

Welcome! Nice looking truck!

You probably already know this, but the emblem on the front of the hood is also from a later model truck-probably a '54 or '55 1st series.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Had no idea. I’m learning how much I haven’t a clue. lol

I didn’t think it was original, but had no clue what time period it came from. I would have assumed it was a 216. Got a lot to learn. Thank you for replying.

Welcome to the ‘Bolt! Your truck appears to be a ‘52 (just like mine) and a very nice start for your project.

Good luck with your build and I for one will be following!

Thank you!
My initial goal is to make sure it is roadworthy and to drive it. I’m not interested in changing the truck much. My uncle bought the truck around 1990. Got it from him in 2017. Mechanically sound is top priority.He drove it to work one day a week to keep everything moving. It could be in much worse shape for sure. I appreciate the suggestions on starting a journal. I literally know nothing about these trucks, but am not afraid to learn by working on it.

The body of your truck looks to be in very good shape. 👍 This is definitely the best place to learn and share all about these old trucks.

Welcome to the Stovebolt. So glad you found us.

John

Thank you!

Glad to have you as part of the Bolt gang. Looking forward to hearing more about the truck as you go.

You'll find a lot of folks will help out all around the site. This is basically your "Bolt Baby Book."

Thank you

Got the truck home. The building it was stored in had a roof leak that added some character to the patina. I gave it a quick wash to knock the dust off before I roll it into the shop. It ran when I parked it, but won’t start. No spark is my initial theory. It’ll be a lot easier to get going here than across town. I may be starting a thread in the engine section for help. lol.

Looking good! And it's a 5 window to boot! I've got a 51 GMC 3 ton rig with a 12 foot bed that was paid for about 5 years ago, that health issues and other problems have prevented me from taking possession of from the previous owner. Hopefully, that's going to change sometime this summer!
Jerry

Bill - Glad to see and hear you got the truck home! The clean up shows off better than the first pix.

Looks like a solid truck. Good to see it got some sun.

Thank you Jerry. I bought this truck from my uncle about 8 years ago. I might've driven it 50 miles before putting it in storage. I was Harley crazy at the time. Don't judge too harshly. lol. He had the truck since 89 I think. He used it to pull his jonboat fishing and putting around town once or twice a month. Other than that, it stayed in his garage. It has some rough spots but seems solid.

Thank you. Hope to put some miles on it soon.

Got the truck cranked today. Disconnected fuel tank and siphoned out as much as possible. Thinking about removing it and cleaning. Not sure how involved or necessary yet.
Used a 1 gallon gas can as makeshift tank. There is a slight fuel drip at the hardline going into carb. Havent put a wrench on it yet. Not sure if that type of connection needs any tape? Cleaned the points, replaced coil and condenser. Bought a new set of plugs not yet installed. The truck was blue at one time and some areas of the truck have blue bleeding through. I love it. I think I posted a pic or two taken in the dark with a flash last night. Lots to do. Brake inspection is my next major project. I’m getting the rims sandblasted and painted as well before putting on the road. I’ll probably try and learn about adjusting the carb. I’m totally opened to suggestions from all.

Bill, I've been Harley crazy since the late 1960s when I bought a 1942 Harley 45 flathead for $50.00, rode it for a year, and sold it for a C-note. I thought I made money! Wish I had the same bike now! Now my "other ride" is a 97 EVO soft tail!
Jerry

I’ve had several HDs over the years. We got an English bulldog puppy about 8 years ago and set this one up for him. First sidecar. Never wanted to ride solo since. We have a ball tooling around town. I’m happily hitched but Clarence isn’t. Girls really like talking to him while we are out and I just have to be a loyal wingman and suffer through it. We do what we must. Hope it’s ok to post these pics here. Definitely off subject. lol.

I won't judge harshly about the Harley, mine is a '99 Fat Boy. The fuel line fittings at the carburetor need no tape or pipe dope, the threads on both of those connections DO NOT SEAL the joint, the larger joint has a copper or plastic gasket, the smaller joint is inverted flare, both rely on compression of the surface to make the seal.

Fellow ‘Bolters. Let’s try to keep on topic please.
If you want to talk about motorcycles (etc). Please take it the Greasy Spoon.
Thanks.

Rubbed on the driver door a little. It is stained from a roof leak. Used a magic eraser. Tried some degreaser sparingly. It’s not like it’s a show winning paint job at all but I don’t want to make it any worse.
Fuel is leaking from the one inch sized fuel inlet screw(not sure the proper term, someone clue me in) that screws into the carb. It’s the one that the flared hard fuel line is piped in to.I think the washer is brass. Not sure if replacing that washer will stop the leak. Definitely wouldn’t hurt to replace the little piece of hardline coming off of it either. Tried removing it. Need a vise. I did wrench the one inch port down when putting it back on. Still dripping. Immediate goals are addressing that leak, thoroughly inspecting brakes and making adjustments and or repairs.

That fitting with the big nut is also a holder for a fuel strainer on most carbs, and there's a thin nylon gasket on the inboard end of it. If that gasket happens to be missing or damaged, no amount of tightening (including stripping the threads in the carb body) will stop the leak. Try a cordless 3/8" drive impact wrench with a 1" socket to GENTLY persuade it to come loose so you can inspect/replace the gaskets.
Jerry

Bill - It's great you post in here about the things you're getting done on the truck, like the rust removal.

Just a reminder though to please ask questions or bring up topics on specific items your seeking advice on, like the carb fuel inlet leak in a separate post in the appropriate Tech Forum. In this case the Engine Shop would be where you and fellow Bolters can discuss and figure out solutions. Once you've solved the problem in the Tech Forum, you can post in here about what you did as continued work progress.

The more I do, the more want to do. There are several projects going on kinda at the same time. I have and will continue to ask questions in the proper forum, but want to keep up with progress in this thread. I’ve done the brakes all the way around. Everything except hardlines and master cylinder. The gas tank was rusted beyond repair. I removed it and decided to relocate it under the bed. I plan on using the stock seat, but move it back 5 inches or so. I’ve removed the piece of plate covering rotten wood, and removed the wood from bed. The front bed panel and sill need replacing. I have them ordered. I have removed the stock seat frame from the floor. I’m still toying with how to reinstall it 5 inches or so back. I’ll post more soon.

The stock seat in my ‘52, when slid back all the way almost touches the back of the cab. I can’t see how it’s possible to mount it 5” further back.

I’m going to have my seat reupholstered and I understand that they can wire some of the springs so they don’t stick out as far to gain an inch or so.

Others have gained room by changing the seat out for a more modern seat. Some have built it seat belts and some are powered.

An inch or so won’t work for me. lol. If it doesn’t give enough room I will definitely go with another seat. I’m a big guy. I’ve been hawking marketplace for a later model bench seat.

I’ll figure out how things work sooner or later. I appreciate the patience shown.

No problem, we’re here to help!

I removed the old bed panel and sill today. I think I’m gonna make some new wood blocks out of some scrap 4x4 post. The threaded rod didn’t have any hardware, So a trip to Lowe’s will be needed. Long carriage bolts too. I want to hit the joint areas with a wire wheel and maybe hit with a little primer.

I’m curious, what are we looking at in the last photo you posted?

Poor job on the photographer's part. Its just a pic of new bed panel and sill.

Bill - Just a suggestion that might help in situations like Phil's question above. There are a couple of ways to title or caption your picture when you upload it so when it displays, the file name or caption will briefly show and can be viewed to name what the topic or item in the photo may be.

You can either fill in the "caption box" prior to selecting and uploading a file, to describe the contents, or do like I do and rename the picture file with a description or name itself before you select the file for uploading. If you use the caption box method, you need to remember to enter a new description/name for each file uploaded, otherwise they either all end up with the same description/name or only show the original picture file name without any hints about what it may be of after uploading this first pic.

[on edit by klhansen] To add to Dan's instructions about captioning. Here is a video on how to post pics with a caption.

After seeing the bracket WICruiser used for his seat I decided to use 1.5x 1.5x 1/8 inch angle with similar design. My cousin works at a steel company with all the welders and cutters. We took some measurements from the new seats and got a basic width and depth. He brought it over this evening to mark where the inner cross pieces need to be welded. The inner legs of the drivers side seat are 2 different heights from the transmission hump of the donor vehicle. Risers will have to be added to that cross piece. I am grateful for his time and talent for sure. Hopefully it will be installed in the next week or so. I need to clean the floor and cab walls while it’s bare.

Those look like the seats in my '97 Silverado.

UtahYork, 98 Suburban. Found them in a pick and pull. Wrecked this year. I’m gonna clean them up real good and maybe throw some covers on them.

I cleaned the dirt off of the rear hanger and shackle. It looks a lot better than the drivers side. I removed the zerk nuts and sprayed some pblaster in the holes and worked a pick tool in and out to work as much of that dried grease out as I could. Replaced screws and shot some grease in. It’s better than it was for sure.

I planned on removing the running boards today and ended up removing the bed as well. The front bed panel was already out so it wasn’t bad. I made a wooden makeshift brace to keep it stable. Got up under the truck and removed some caked up grime. Pretty sure the master cylinder is leaking. I’m planning on wire brushing the frame as best I can and maybe painting it. I’m not planning on removing the cab, but will at least get under the bed and running board supports nice and fresh. I’m still looking for a rear spring hanger that is in decent shape. I haven’t decided what to do with bed floor yet but definitely don’t want to do a kit. I kinda want to do a one piece without all those carriage bolts. Another discussion for another day.
My next project is to hit those spot welds and holes on the side bed panels with a buffing wheel and prime the bare metal. Maybe bolt the front bed panel up after.

The width of the bed is about 50 inches, a few years back I put a temporary bed in mine out of plywood. I made two pieces of moulding to make up the extra inch on each side, so I could use one standard piece of plywood.

I went and removed the spring hangers from an old parts truck in my area. An old hot rodder’s junkyard. Had to do a little weed eating. One of the hangers was bolted in. Talk about good luck!! He has a set of shackles too, but I forgot them.

I removed the bad hangers and pins and replaced with about good as new parts. I ground the rivet heads flat from the bottom and drove a pin with a hammer up until they popped out.
Replaced new hangers with grade 8 bolts. I soaked the pins in gas and worked out all the old grease.
I used a 2x4 and wedged it from the springs right next to the axle straight up to the frame. The board was a little long and I had to wedge it with a hammer. When I removed the shackle the spring rose maybe an inch. I was all scared for nothing. I put some grease on the threads, screwed them in, replaced the shackles, and greased the fittings. It was a satisfying sound to hear that grease flow through those pins. It did take a little muscle to get everything back together, but not too bad. Still cleaning frame and prepping for paint.

Wow! Those mounts show a lot of wear over the years.

I meant to post this pic of what the replacement looked like compared to the old.

Bill - You're missing some bits from your shackles that are needed to help make them last a bit longer. On the ends of each pin, and sandwiched between the bushings and the shackle plates, should be some either cork (original) or rubber (repop) shackle pin "washers" like the one pictured below. They provide a bit of protection from the elements and help keep the grease to stay put for longer lubrication effectiveness.

These Rubber shackle pin "washers" are a little dirt cheap protection to fill those wide gaps you have. This is just one vendor of many that offer them.

Were did you get your replacements? Were they from a donor truck?

Thank you Gdads51!
I'll put them on my next order list.

Otto Skorzeny, Yes, I found a donor truck in my area.

That's amazing those were in such good shape from that donor truck.

I agree Otto. One was actually bolted in, so it had been replaced, but the other was just as good and it was original.
The pins I used were in the hangers on that truck as well. The man who owned the place gave me the shackles with bottom pins too. 40 bucks for everything. Real nice fellow. He helped me pull the hangers off. I’ll definitely go back just to talk to him.

What is the name of that “old hot rodder’s junkyard”, and where is he located?

Phak1- His name is Walkie White. He lives in the booming metropolis of Timmonsville SC. Mainly retired from the looks of everything. He used to travel some sort of circuit selling hot rod parts. Very knowledgeable about anything I’ve asked him about. The pic posted is a dash a friend of his fabricated out of steel for his COE project. I thought it was some kind of molded plastic. Nope. Steel. Probably sitting there 20 years. All kinds of different stuff.

Bill - Glad you have such a valuable resource to turn to in your immediate neck of the woods! Thanks for sharing.

I rebuilt the master cylinder. I was really nervous about the hard lines, but vice grips and heat persuaded them fairly easily. The cylinder honed out nicely. The small hole in the resovoir was stopped up. Carb cleaner directly shot in a few times cleared it. I replaced all old parts with new ones provided in the kit. When I pulled everything apart, I removed the old pieces from the boot end of the cylinder. I found it easier to install everything back from the brake line end of the cylinder. I don’t think it matters as long as everything is in the right order.I used a little bit of brake fluid for lube. l Everything went back together nicely. I still have the lines removed from the rear of the truck so no bleeding yet. I definitely plan on flushing all of the lines before bleeding though. Glad to have this done. I feel pretty good about the result so far.

This is the honed pic. Previous post had pre honed by mistake.

That started out gunky! Nice work to clean it up.

Thanks Utah. Great call on checking those holes for blockages! Definitely saved me another trip inside.

I used a wire wheel on an angle grinder, wire brushes, and a pressure washer to prep the frame. Wiped it down with acetone right before painting. I used Rustoleum implement paint low gloss black. I applied with a small sponge roller, a 2 inch regular brush, and maybe a dozen sponge brushes. A rattle can saved the day for those hard to get places. It was pretty shiny for low gloss. I’m not unhappy, just a little surprised. I thought it would be a little flatter. The axle was really smooth so I used self etching primer for it. I’m super happy with how it looks!

That looks pretty nice. It'll last forever. I painted the entire undercarriage of my Cadillac with Rustoleum semi-gloss black 20 years ago.

It still looks like new with over 100,000 miles on it.

Thanks Otto. It should outlast me for sure.

I removed the rear exhaust pipe and muffler several weeks ago to make it easier to replace the spring hanger. I went ahead and removed the front pipe today. Hit it with a wire wheel and some acetone before rattle canning it with high heat paint. I saw a red muffler somewhere and thought that would look good. I’m gonna clean the clamps up a little before installing back. I can touch up some spots on the frame that I missed under the cab near where it was ran. My next goal is to get the inner bed panels prepped and painted. It may have to wait a few days. We are having a heat wave in my area. 3-4 hours and I’m about done when it’s like that. It’s not enjoyable.