Where might I find info on what type (fine/coarse thread, size, length, etc.) of screw or bolts go where on 235 engine, sm420 4 speed trans, and 3100 body? Or is there anything that shows that? Any info would be very much appreciated.
S2
Stewart2 1955.1 3100 Both Owner and P/U have lots of miles, lots of history and need LOTS of TLC Jack of several trades and experiences; Master of none
S2 - That info is found in the Chevy Master Parts Books, but not always an easy read and find process. You can find the vast majority of the info related to your Chevy 1955.1 3100 in the following free on-line books:
Many specific bits of hardware are listed in the individual major item sections of the book, like engines, transmission, etc., but there is also a combined section of the books called Standard Parts Listing (this one from the 1957 Book) that provides further specification details for common hardware items that is often not included in the part description in the major component sections of the books.
Take a gander at these and if you need to, come back and ask more questions and we'll try our best to help you out with more info.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
You'll find very few fine thread bolts on our trucks. A couple that come to mind are the door hinge bolts (3/8-24) and the engine mount to frame bolt and nut set (don't recall the size, but they're bigger than the door hinge bolts. Everything that screws into cast iron will be coarse thread.
BTW, the bolt part numbers in the FAM don't go anywhere that I've found, as the part numbers likely changed too many times. I've been down that rabbit hole a few times. Unfortunately the FAM #'s don't match up with those in Dan's Standard Parts Listing
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Stewart, What you are asking for may not be available in print, but what is available is a bunch of guys on this site who do know what bolts go where. My suggestion to you is, as you begin the assembly process, come back in and ask specific questions about what you will be assembling at that time. I am sure that you will receive the information that you will need.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Thank you, guys. for the inputs. I was thinking about using new bolts bought from a hardware store instead of paying the high price that the retailors charge + shipping. I have like 85% of the old bolts but like an idiot, I didn't label them. I really do appreciate your help.
S2
Stewart2 1955.1 3100 Both Owner and P/U have lots of miles, lots of history and need LOTS of TLC Jack of several trades and experiences; Master of none
Having recently assembled my truck, I may be able to help with ID'ing what bolts go where. Although you may have to ask before memory loss sets in. I have misplaced things I've set down a few minutes prior to looking.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
You'll find very few fine thread bolts on our trucks. A couple that come to mind are the door hinge bolts (3/8-24) and the engine mount to frame bolt and nut set (don't recall the size, but they're bigger than the door hinge bolts. Everything that screws into cast iron will be coarse thread.
BTW, the bolt part numbers in the FAM don't go anywhere that I've found, as the part numbers likely changed too many times. I've been down that rabbit hole a few times. Unfortunately the FAM #'s don't match up with those in Dan's Standard Parts Listing
It seems to me the bolts that hold the steering box on are fine thread. All but 1 of them. The one that threads up from inside the frame that threads into the box. I replaced mine with ARP bolts and weld nuts because I'm boxing the frame. I also bought a bumper to bumper stainless bolt kit for my 53 3100 that I could reference for you.
You may be right about the steering box bolts being fine thread. I do know the one that screws up into the box is coarse thread. If you're using stainless steel fasteners, be sure to use anti-seize on them. Especially any that are fine thread. Stainless tends go gall when the nuts and bolts are threaded together and ruin them. But be careful that you don't get any on you.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
You may be right about the steering box bolts being fine thread. I do know the one that screws up into the box is coarse thread. If you're using stainless steel fasteners, be sure to use anti-seize on them. Especially any that are fine thread. Stainless tends go gall when the nuts and bolts are threaded together and ruin them. But be careful that you don't get any on you.
Good advice. I put something on just about every bolt. Anti-seize, blue, red, or green Loctite. I use the little sticks or tubes of anti-seize and Loctite when possible. So easy to use. Especially the anti-seize. The jar with the brush is a mess.
