Is this the recommended way of doing it or has some other method preferred?
The example shows adding a spin-on filter adapter, which is good, but is it practical to use the existing filter cannister to preserve the original look? This is a restoration so looks are somewhat important. I suppose the original could be left in place as a dummy and not used.
That was posted by Rob English, the head guy over at Old GMC Trucks. Unfortunately, participation on that sight isn't what it used to be.
The article about the full flow oil filter was taken from a 1955 booklet titled GMC Speed Manual, written by California Bill Fisher. I have attached a copy scanned into a .PDF file.
Theoretically you could use the original filter cannister, but you would have to at least increase the size of the attaching hoses a bunch. And the original filter was installed on the other side of the engine, so the lines over and back would be really long. I'd stay with the stock filter if you are looking for originality.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Probably not critical to have a full flow system...just thinking it might protect the engine a little better. If I did modify it I probably would lean towards a new filter adapter and just leave the original filter in place for looks.
Years ago I showed how I ran lines away from the oil pump, through a filter and right back to where the oil pump by design sends oil to the engine. I sent the lines through the place where the original fuel pump was located on my 235 (since the late 90s I've used an electric fuel pump). I could have done the same thing by simply drilling two holes in the block if I wanted to keep the mechanical fuel pump, but I didn't. The oil lines went to an aftermarket oil filter mounting piece which attached to an unused side motor mount. It has made changing the filter a whole lot easier and less messy. Let me know if you want images of what I did.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Years ago I showed how I ran lines away from the oil pump, through a filter and right back to where the oil pump by design sends oil to the engine. I sent the lines through the place where the original fuel pump was located on my 235 (since the late 90s I've used an electric fuel pump). I could have done the same thing by simply drilling two holes in the block if I wanted to keep the mechanical fuel pump, but I didn't. The oil lines went to an aftermarket oil filter mounting piece which attached to an unused side motor mount. It has made changing the filter a whole lot easier and less messy. Let me know if you want images of what I did.
That's a thought but I'll be using an original fuel pump so routing the lines there isn't an option.
Back at the computer where the images are stored so I'll post a couple in case anyone is interested. I used fittings that could easily be disconnected if need be. You can't see in these images, but I can detach the copper lines at the back side of the little blank-out plate I made. As I said, you could just drill holes in your block and attach fittings with flat neoprene washers, or there are other ways to do the same thing. It seemed to me catching the output at the pump and then sending it straight back to where the pump would normally have sent it made as much sense as any of the alternatives. Anyhow the project was easy as pie and it has made changing the oil filter a nice clean walk in the park. Please let me know if you have any questions.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
GMC runs a totally different oil gallery system than Chevy, so ignore the "how to" posts showing full flow conversions on stovebolt engines. It's a shame that most people buy into the myth that an engine needs all the oil filtered all the time. Bypass filters do a much better job of cleaning up the oil, since they take a small volume of the lubricant, run it through a much tighter weave filter media, and actually strain out much finer contaminant particles than a full flow. Anything that passes all the oil needed to lubricate the engine every time it leaves the pump must have a pretty coarse weave media to allow enough volume to keep the engine lubricated. Ideally, an engine should have two filters- - - -a full flow to strain out the "rocks, marbles, and bowling balls" that can damage bearings- - - - -and a bypass filter to catch the stuff that goes through the full flow setup. Jerry
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GMC runs a totally different oil gallery system than Chevy, so ignore the "how to" posts showing full flow conversions on stovebolt engines. It's a shame that most people buy into the myth that an engine needs all the oil filtered all the time. Bypass filters do a much better job of cleaning up the oil, since they take a small volume of the lubricant, run it through a much tighter weave filter media, and actually strain out much finer contaminant particles than a full flow. Anything that passes all the oil needed to lubricate the engine every time it leaves the pump must have a pretty coarse weave media to allow enough volume to keep the engine lubricated. Ideally, an engine should have two filters- - - -a full flow to strain out the "rocks, marbles, and bowling balls" that can damage bearings- - - - -and a bypass filter to catch the stuff that goes through the full flow setup. Jerry
What I'm interested in is going to a modern full flow system to catch the "rocks" as you say, from getting to the bearings. The original bypass oil filter system on an old 270 is completely different that a modern bypass oil filter designed to catch micron size particles. The original oil filter probably isn't any finer than standard automotive filters used today, any maybe not as fine. From what I've read, changing from a bypass oil filter to a full flow filter reduces overall engine wear significantly.
Back at the computer where the images are stored so I'll post a couple in case anyone is interested. I used fittings that could easily be disconnected if need be. You can't see in these images, but I can detach the copper lines at the back side of the little blank-out plate I made. As I said, you could just drill holes in your block and attach fittings with flat neoprene washers, or there are other ways to do the same thing. It seemed to me catching the output at the pump and then sending it straight back to where the pump would normally have sent it made as much sense as any of the alternatives. Anyhow the project was easy as pie and it has made changing the oil filter a nice clean walk in the park. Please let me know if you have any questions.
In thinking about your conversion, it might work well to do something very similar to what you did but go through the side of the oil pan with the filter lines. The engine I'm working on has the two-piece "deep" oil pan used on military trucks which might give me room to route lines. I could braze in bulkhead fittings through the pan to attach lines and not have to modify the block. It will take some investigating to see if it's feasable.
Running lines thru the pan might be a bit difficult, as they might have to span the gasket plane from the fixed block to the removable pan. Although with a two-piece pan, that could be an option, making the connections between block and pan after the top piece of the pan is attached to the block.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
