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#1603002 05/02/2026 2:27 PM
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 327
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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The good news is, after all this time, my 235 is alive and running. The bad news is, my fuel pump leaks.

It was first leaking from the lines, so I snugged them up, put teflon tape on one. Thought I had it fixed. Then it leaked again. Fittings were dry all around them. Discovered it's leaking between the top and bottom where I'm pointing in the picture. Is this common? I see it has two weep holes, but nothing coming from them.

So I have several questions...is this a rebuildable pump, and is it worthwhile? It has AC on it, but don't know it's age. Don't know if this is a "good" original, or original style, pump worth rebuilding, or is this a cheaper replacement.

Another question I have is, I see lots of variation on what years some of the replacement pumps are for. My engine is a '59. I see some places advertise the glass bowl type, and also the ones with the vacuum on the bottom will work for all years, and other places they only list certain years. Can I use any 216/235 mechanical pump?

I know some of you guys will say to scrap it and go electric. Maybe I'll eventually do that. For now, I just want to get the truck on the road.

Thanks for any input.

Ron
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O
'Bolter
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I will never say scrap it and go electric. I would say scrap it and find an original style or original OEM replacement fuel pump with the glass cover on it and install that after you rebuild it or have it rebuilt

The new ones are all from China and they are all junk and they never work. I would post some pictures of mine I went through two Chinese pumps that lasted 300 miles and then one of them wouldn't even pump a drop straight from the box.

I sent the original fuel pump to then and now automotive for a rebuild several years ago and it has over 10,000 miles on it with no problems whatsoever


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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'Bolter
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Oh yeah I can't post any pictures of mine now because I'm on vacation and all my photographs are on my home computer. Although I'm sure there's a way to find it on my phone that type of technology is too new for me


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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Posts: 87
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'Bolter
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Is Teflon tape a good idea? Wont the gas eat it away?


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Renaissance Man
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For a clean pump and fittings, no teflon tape is required.
For dirty parts and fittings, teflon tape is not advisable.
If you can't clean dirty parts, you need to buy new ones.
Teflon tape should definitely not be used on inverted flare fittings.
I would be looking for a pump which the top half is held on with screws rather the ones which are mashed together with hope and prayers. I like the glass top ones personally.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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'Bolter
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Will get rid of the tape on the outlet when I change out the pump.

Just found a couple of the screw-on top type.

Last edited by RBs36; 05/03/2026 2:49 AM.
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'Bolter
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Your pump is a non-rebuildable style, no thread sealer is used on the flare nuts, the threads do not seal the joint, only the flare face. Only pipe threads would require sealer if they leak.


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
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'Bolter
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I found a rebuildable one from another Stovebolter and followed Otto's suggestion and ordered a rebuild kit for it from Then and Now. I was a bit concerned that I would rebuild it and have issues...but I followed their instructions and it worked fine.


Nick
1940 KC Model 1/2 Ton Pickup Project
(with '37-'39 Bed and what we think is a '42-'46 Frame)
Taos, New Mexico
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Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
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Originally Posted by RBs36
Will get rid of the tape on the outlet when I change out the pump.

Just found a couple of the screw-on top type.

Can you provide more info on the rebuildable pumps you found? There are some of those that look correct, but were built with too high of an output pressure which causes carb flooding and poor performance issues.

You want to find early original style or replacement units as they will have the correct output pressure for your '59 235.


~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
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"My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine"
1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver)
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Originally Posted by Gdads51
Can you provide more info on the rebuildable pumps you found? There are some of those that look correct, but were built with too high of an output pressure which causes carb flooding and poor performance issues.


This is the description: Rebuilt 40217 Fuel Pump 1958-1962 Chevrolet Impala Bel Air 235 261 L6

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Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
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The 40217 is the correct pump for your engine. It'll have the right fuel pressure! thumbs_up


~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
Follow this story in the DITY Gallery
"My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine"
1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver)
US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
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Posts: 327
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'Bolter
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Thanks Dan!

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'Bolter
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I just went through this a month or so back. I had a brand new pump like yours, causing massive flooding problems from over pressure. I contacted "Then and Now " and rebuilt my orig 40217 (59 235) with their kit. Works perfectly.


1959 Chev Napco 4x4 3100 w/235cu

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