The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Horn with fuse?

46 1/2 ton Chevy truck, 6 volts. Question on my horn wire. Replaced mast bearing last year and ran my wire down the column and out the hole. Waiting for a better time to finish. So originally I ran the wire from horn button down column cut off hanging out the hole. Then the wire from horn itself just hanging loose. My question is this a fuseable link? Is it necessary ? Is this common and do I need it in the new wire. I’m assuming these wires were connected together and the wire from ammeter was just removed. I see no other fragments of wire. I’ve seen the 12 volts with a relay but nothing with the 6 volts. Nothing in manual that I see either. Thanks

Glen

Wiring diagram for 6v does not show any fuse with the horn. Also, I don't think it's a fusible link. When I removed mine, there was no fuse. I think it was just a way to connect two wires together, so you could disconnect them later when needed.

Great. Thanks. Hoping to check out my mast bearing wire and a wire from the ammeter to make sure it works on truck then paint and install soon.

Answering Ponchogl's original questions "is this a fuseable link? Is it necessary ? Is this common and do I need it in the new wire. "

using John in Utah's wiring diagram ...

It doesn't look like a fusible link to me. Probably just a connector.

Necessary? No

New wire? I'd replace both wires.

The factory wiring did not have a fuse of any type for the horn circuit. If you'd like to install one, I'd place it as near to the ammeter as practical. That way it would protect as much of the wire as possible.

Fuse value? I don't know.

Thanks Bill,

I don’t really want the fuse, just another connection to go bad. I am running new wires with crimp connectors with heat shrink. I was also going to solder the connections. Should last for my purposes. I think I read in an older post using a heavier gauge wire will make it louder. I will just do a couple of tests before hooking it up for curiosity.

Although your statement is true, the consequences of a direct short to ground may trump a bad connector. If it was mine, I would install a 14 gauge fusible link or 40 amp fuse between the starter positive lug and the ammeter to protect the whole system.

I’m in the process of rewiring my ‘52 and I installed a fuse directly on the firewall near the starter just for that protection.

Not that I don’t want a fuse in the system just not in the horn wire if not needed. So I looked at horn wire closer. Black tape with a connection and possibly a fused link? Never seen one before.

Then I have a fuse in the block with flasher. Looks like maybe 10 amps when I zoom it in. This may be a fuse for system? I need to untape those wires to see where all goes(future project).

Using John in Utah's wiring diagram, I've highlighted the feed wire from the starter to the ammeter in green.

I installed a 50 amp circuit breaker in this green wire on the firewall as close to the starter as practical. That way it protects ALL the wiring except the starter's battery feed. I chose 50 amp because I have air conditioning.

That seems like that would work. Currently not planning A/C . Would I still need 50 amp breaker or less. I m not that electrical 😢. Thanks

I did a 30amp fuse on my '46. No A/C. Not sure that is correct, but I don't believe I had any fuses to start with and now I have three. I did a couple 20amp fuses before the flasher and head light switch.

A fuse installed as Bill pointed out will protect the entire electrical system against a dead short. I chose a 40 amp because I have an HEI installed. I’m sure a 30 amp would be adequate in your system.

A fusible link is just a wire that will burn out in case of an over current. I had installed one before I disassembled my truck so I could do the bodywork, paint and rewiring. The photo shows the pigtail I spliced in.

Sounds like a 30 amp will be good. I could put the breaker on firewall like Bill and Phil mentioned. Nothing extra on my truck. I could add a couple like John did. I was searching on a few vendor sites and unable to find any. I could use one like above or would this water proof one from Amazon. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks

I was looking at something like this? I think they have more or less fuse connections, but 3 or 4 seems plenty in my situation. I've also seen some that have one major power coming in and then distributed by fuses.

Breaker costs more and is "reusable".
Blown fuse needs replacing.

I've never popped the breaker with the A/C running full blast, the radio turned up loud, the lights on bright, the left turn signal flashing and the engine running (power from the alternator) or not (power from the battery). I also have a circuit breaker in the power wire from the alternator. I haven't measured the amount of current going the breaker, but my truck is 12 volt, which reduces the amount of current needed for lighting.

I’m going to put in a circuit breaker. Thanks for the info. Sells me. Just looking for a breaker you may recommend to install. I’m waiting for some wire. I have 1.0 battery cables and hoping to finish this up this weekend coming up. Will the breaker I pictured above work for my purposes from Amazon?

Should work.

I agree, that looks good!

Read the reviews on breaker above. Not good, this one had better reviews. So getting this one. Thank guys