I have looked through many post about attaching a T5 trans to a 216/235 bell housing. I really like the idea of going with the Jeep input shaft.
Please keep in mind that I am new to the hobby of rebuilding old cars.
The T5 I have has the port for the speedometer cable so I am assuming it is 1988 or older and I believe it to be an S-10.
The bell housing came off the 216 engine that was in the 49 Chevy when I purchased it. I am under the impression that the circular piece of the input shaft that bolts to the front of the T5 should fit inside of the whole in the bell housing. However, that is not the case with my bell housing and T5 trans. Looking for some advice on what part I have wrong that is preventing me from marrying these to pieces. Or what I can do to make it work. Thanks in advance for any help I may receive.
Your assumption about making the bearing cap (that's what the maintenance manual calls the "circular piece of the input shaft that bolts to the front of the T5") smaller is correct. Take it off the transmission and bring it and the bellhousing to a decent machine shop. They will measure the hole in the bellhousing and turn down the outer lip of the bearing cap to match.
Other things to worry about include matching the length of the new input shaft to the old one, matching the splines of the shaft to your clutch and matching the diameter of the end of the shaft to your pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft.
Last edited by Bill Hanlon; 03/23/202611:25 PM.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Joe, Your input shaft bearing retainer is installed incorrectly. I’m 100% sure of this. There is a rectangular boss and a rounded boss on the bearing retainer. Your rounded boss is at the 9 o’clock position. You need to unbolt that piece and turn the retainer clockwise so the rounded boss is at 12 o’clock. Otherwise the front bearing will be starved for lubication and you don’t want that to happen.
Depending on how much the bearing retainer diameter needs to be reduced, it might be a good idea to use Allen bolts instead of hex heads to install the retainer. Less chance of the bolt heads contacting the bellhousing bore. Jerry
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Here’s another view of the front bearing retainer. Notice that the small notch (which corresponds to the rounded boss on the other side) will allow lubrication fluid to seep down to lubricate the front bearing. The larger notch at the bottom allows the fluid to run out. The orientation when installed must have the small notch at the top.
Thank you. That makes me nervous because I purchased this transmission from a machine shop. They had the T5 transmission and rebuilt it for me when I purchased it.
Thank you for pointing it out. I have seen many of your articles/videos in this sight. I hope you will continue to help me.
Thank you. I will keep it in mind. After the bearing retainer has been modified I may post again with pics and the amount shaved off or remaining and get you and others opinion.
Thank you. I will keep it in mind. After the bearing retainer has been modified I may post again with pics and the amount shaved off or remaining and get you and others opinion.
Joe
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