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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 313
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 313
Hello, All,

I have owned Stovebolts for 35 years, but have never had this happen. After a short drive and back home, I am noticing there is very little play in my brake pedal, in other words, the pedal is almost all the way up to the top, and has very little travel before brakes are applied.

I just recently installed all new brake shoes, drums, and wheel cylinders and none of the brakes are too tight, because I just got back from a drive, and felt all 4 wheels and none are warm. I am wondering if my master cylinder is going bad. It's the only thing I haven't replaced.

1953 3100

TIA

Kevin

Last edited by kthomas; 03/28/2026 7:58 PM.

1953 3100 with 1957 235, T5 and 12 bolt 373 rear
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,129
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,129
Before you condemn the master cylinder, adjust the pedal linkage so that when you look in the reservoir, you see a little spurt of brake fluid. That means the relief port is not blocked. If you don't see that spurt, that means the port is blocked and expanding brake fluid (from heat) has nowhere to go.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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Joined: Mar 2004
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K
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Mar 2004
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Originally Posted by klhansen
Before you condemn the master cylinder, adjust the pedal linkage so that when you look in the reservoir, you see a little spurt of brake fluid. That means the relief port is not blocked. If you don't see that spurt, that means the port is blocked and expanding brake fluid (from heat) has nowhere to go.

Thanks, I will check that out. It's possible that a piece of rust could be blocking the port.

I just went out and check, while pumping the pedal and there is no spurt in the MC, at all, and the bottom of the MC is rusty looking.

Last edited by kthomas; 03/28/2026 8:51 PM.

1953 3100 with 1957 235, T5 and 12 bolt 373 rear
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,914
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Oct 2021
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I think you've answered your question.

You can rebuild your original, send it off to have it rebuilt, or buy a new one for about $40.

I bought a Dynamic Friction brand mc from rock Auto a few years ago and it's working just fine.

If you buy a new one, save your original to rebuild in the future.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 313
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 313
Originally Posted by Otto Skorzeny
I think you've answered your question.

You can rebuild your original, send it off to have it rebuilt, or buy a new one for about $40.

I bought a Dynamic Friction brand mc from rock Auto a few years ago and it's working just fine.

If you buy a new one, save your original to rebuild in the future.
Hey, Otto,

How are you? Yeah, after Kevin explained things, it made sense to what was happening. I will look at Rock Auto, I buy a lot of parts from them.

Thanks!

Kevin


1953 3100 with 1957 235, T5 and 12 bolt 373 rear
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 114
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 114
Several of the vintage truck suppliers (Filling Station, Jim Carter, etc..) sell the master cylinder rebuild kits. Pretty simple to rebuild them.


Geoff

1955 2nd Series 3600 235 cid, 4 sp. - Current
1979 Chevy K10 350 cid 4 sp -Sold
1955 2nd Series Wide Window 283 cid 3 sp - Totaled

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