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| | | Forums66 Topics128,078 Posts1,056,021 Members48,433 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 360 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 360 | Installing new leaf springs and the leaf spring mount for the gas shock conversion on a '46 1/2 ton. Using a set of roll a round rims and tires, 235/75 R15. no clearance between the end of the shock bolt and the tire/rim. Anyone who has done the conversion have the same issue? I see two options. 1 change the tire and rim package, go to a 205 or 215 tire which will use a 5-6.5 inch rim along with a rim with 4" backspace, as opposed to the 9 inch rim 5.25 backspace on the 235. 2 install the shock and see if there is any length of bolt that can be trimmed off. https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detai...version_Kit_With_Gas_Shocks_4_12Ton.html What tire and rim are you running with the shock conversion? Did you find that you need to use a longer wheel stud with modern rims?
"it's only old if you can't find a use for it; otherwise it's cool and i'll use it."
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,213 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,213 | You are going to have to post a picture of the issue, the shock mount should be close to the spindle, no where near the rim, and the top mount should be right near the frame rail. My '37 has tube shocks and are no where near the rims or tires, the '37 frame is very similar to the '46. | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,063 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,063 | You must be referring to the rear lower shock mount. It sticks out toward the rim. Of course there's no issue with the stock 4-1/2" wide rims. The 9" rim you're using is quite a bit wider than stock. Is there any excess thread sticking out of the nut that you could trim off? If not, you'll need to switch to narrower rims, or different backspacing.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,213 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,213 | I didn't think about the rear shocks, mine mount on the inside of the frame rails to a cross bar I welded to the frames. Anyway to make the work on the inside of the frames? | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,063 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,063 | It might be possible to turn the rear lower shock mounts inboard, and then mount the upper mounts inboard of the frame as well. But you'd have to weld a plate on the inside of the frame channel to bolt the upper mounts to. Or maybe dig up some 3/4 ton rear upper shock mount brackets which mount to the inside of the frame channel, and may work. Lower shock mounts on 3/4 ton trucks welded to the rear axle tube rather than being attached with the u-bolts. It would take some fiddling to get shocks mounted inboard of the frame.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | |
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