The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Steering ball studs

This is another question from an earlier thread that I posted.
I have 1941 Model AK pickup that I’m trying to replace the steering balls on. I had purchased a set of threaded replacement balls from a known vendor, which didn’t fit the steering arm bore. I had also noticed that there hadn’t been a radius ground under the flange where the shank intersects. So, I called the vendor and asked if they had any problems with the flange breaking and the shank being too large. I got the same spiel, as we all have heard before, “ We’ve never had a problem before. Just have a machine shop grind it down to fit the bore.” So, I had the balls shank ground to fit. Once I got the balls back from the machine shop I pressed them in, three went in fine, but the fourth broke at the flange. It actually broke like glass, bad heat treatment. Now I’m worried about the rest.
My question is , what have people done to fix worn steering balls? I have tried to use the replacement tie rod ends, but the shank fit loose in the steering arm bore.
Any help would be appreciated.

Since the bores are in a forged arm, I doubt you will find any replacements that fit perfect. The shoulders under the ball and the washer and nut are what hold the ball in the upright position, not the bore. The shaft just needs to fit with out much movement, no tight press fit. If you are worried about the others, trash them and get a second set ream out the arm and drop them in. You could at one time buy the ones you peen into place.

I use the modern type tie-rod ends on my drag link, I never gave it a second thought about how tight or loose the shaft was in the hole. Chevrolet sold these as a replacement for the ball and socket type along with about every aftermarket parts vender in the chassis business. If the nut is tight with a good washer and a flat surface on both sides of the arm, they will work with no issues, mine are going on 20 years now.

My two tie-rod ends are the ball and socket type, with bolt in replacement balls. They both dropped in the holes after I cleaned up the bores with a drill bit or die grinder, nothing fancy or precise, just enough for a drop in fit. Run a file across top and bottom to clean off any burr and tighten them down. They are also 20+ years old now.

I wrote up a tech tip years ago when I replaced mine about lapping the cups to the ball ends. Quality may have improved since then, but back then, the cups did not fit the balls and caused hard steering. I used a drill press to spin the balls and lapping compound in the cups held up to the spinning ball till they fit right. You could tell as you were lapping when the were seated correctly.

I sure don't remember have any need to press them in or have grinding done on them.

Joe

Joe,
I did have to lap in the balls to the seats. Not perfect, but better. The ball shanks measured, before grinding, .004” to .006” over the bore size. The machine shop ground them down to have a slight press, basically what the originals were. I’m just concerned on how easily that one ball stud broke, like glass.
Where did you purchase your tie rod ends and how did you go about making up a drag link with the replacement tie rod ends? Sounds like a better solution then these ball studs.
Ken

I have an uncle who is a machinist, he made this rod for me, it was made from some good quality rod he had, left and right hand threads were cut. It works great to center the steering box perfectly. I used replacement tie-rod ends with the sealed balls ( modern type ). I did need to trim the stud on the one at the axle end, it would drag across the axle casting. My original plan was to cut down the long steering rod for the tie-rods, cutting off the right hand threads leaving the left hand threads intact. Right hand dies are cheaper to get, so cutting new threads was my plan. My uncle offered up to make one so I didn't look any more at the original rods to see if it was possible or not.

I could never get my gear box adjusted for straight ahead, where the tight spot was center correctly. My '37 chassis has a '55 front axle and '79 rear axle, so the odd axles may have something to do with the setup. But now with the adjustable section, I can dial in a perfect setup. I changed caster shims to increase the cater angle by 2 more degrees, this changed the steering wheel position by 1/8 turn, so I simply readjusted back to center. The truck drives as easy as my '02 Toyota does and will track straight as can be a level ground.

I bought this set, 1941-46 Tie Rod End Set Modern Style 1/2-ton Part Number: ME347l / ME347R - PW-416-TRMT. You can find them at most any of the parts vendors. I bought a set off E-bay, NOS ones, I believe they were returns due to how bad they drove. Yes they were in the original boxes, but I don't think they were still new. This was one case where old was better!