Another one I need help on. Getting ready to replace the running boards (if I can find those special screws) I think as it sets is how it would fit under the cab? Screws face up & I have to drill wholes through the rubber? Have to trim the rubber end? Thanks so much!
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
If you use self drilling screws, you can just drill thru the rubber and the rocker. Unless you want to go uber-original and use clutch head screws. I believe the rubber will need to be trimmed a bit. I don't remember if I did that when I put mine on. Yes, the leg facing down goes toward the outside. The metal strip goes underneath of course.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I told you wrong on the vertical leg. I just checked on mine and I have the metal strip on top of the rubber with the vertical leg inboard of the running board. The rubber just touches the inner edge of the running board and extends below it. The screws go up thru the rocker (side rail), then the rubber, and then the metal strip on top, which should have sort of threads formed in the holes. You won't need self drilling screws.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
He will if he replaced the rocker panel which I believe he did.
Last edited by Phak1; 02/20/202612:59 AM. Reason: Typo
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I replaced rockers and they already had the holes in them. The screws just slip thru the holes in the rockers.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Good to know for future members. None of the replacement panels I bought had the screw holes, so I assumed the rockers would follow.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
It’s funny how getting this one task completed makes me feel. The very front screw was difficult because of the running board mount being in the way. I used a small Phillips driver with both ends bent 90 degrees. Then had to turn it small turns, it was getting dark & my light had burned out. Got the new seal on the lower door driver side.
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
