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1956 Chevy 3100 with 261.

At this time the plan is to get the truck on the road as is no mods. I have never driven a straight axle so I dont know what to expect.

So in the mean time im doing my research. If I decide I do not like the straigt axle then there would be some type of front clip. Camaro, mustang etcetra. I will keep the 261 though.

For those who kept their 216-235-261 and installed a front clip.
What front clip did you use?
Any issues and how you solve them?
Would you do it again?
How did you mount the engine?

Thank you.

There is nothing wrong with a straight axle. In fact, if you didn't know the vehicle you were driving had a straight axle, I doubt you'd be able to tell the difference unless you plan on auto-crossing your truck.

Make sure your steering linkage is in perfect working order. New shocks work wonders. Make sure there is no play in the steering gear and kingpins, etc.

Dump trucks and delivery trucks use solid axles with no control problems or difficulty.

Rock49 - As the saying goes, it's your truck, so your choice on how you build it. We all have our preferences, but it's up to you what you go with.

Here's a "Legacy Tech Tip" on Installing an IFS (Independent Front Suspension) as food for thought. It is based on a '41 truck, but basically similar to your '56 in design/process. I'll note that there are ton of newer designed IFS kits currently available as both weld in and even some bolt in applications. There is also the idea of doing a frame clip, like described in this other "Legacy Tech Tip" Installing a Camaro Clip that is also good food for thought.

Others that have changed over their solid axles to IFS will come along and hopefully share their experience and wisdom soon.

I was a young man when I wrote that Camaro Clip tip. I have a lot more gray, now. These days, I wouldn't want to work that hard. Camaro clips are actually too wide for the application UNLESS, you plan on changing out the upper and lower A arms with a narrower version. I don't know of too many versions for sale these days and a lot of fabricators are making their own. Otherwise, I still like the ride. Since the Camaro clip days, the G body front axle seems to be a better fit, but I have no experience with that.

Thanks Otto, I will keep all that in mind. Im not closed to the Idea of a straigt axle. I just have no point of reference. Keeping it stock would be well within my means: time, money and skill wise. If I go with a swap thats a whole nother thing. Also there is a fair amount of curiosity on my part.

Gdads51. I asked the wrong front clip question. Upon further thought I should have asked how to keep a 216-235-261 engin when doing a front clip swap. It apears that the majority of clip swaps also instal a v8 as part of the proces. Im sure its a simple work around to keep the 6, just having trouble visualuzing it. Are there 216-235-261 engines with side motor mounts or did they all come with the front motor mounts?

MNSmith. I enjoyed the write up. I will see what I can find regarding a G body clip.

Rock - Yes to later 1955.2 Series and later 235's and 261's with front side mounts. Below is a screen grab from a 1955-59 Factory Assembly Manual that shows the front engine side mounts. There re mount bosses cast onto each side of the block front just above the oil pan rail where the upper brackets bolt to the engine. This is originally how your 1956 3100 was designed and built.

If you are looking at changing over the front to an IFS set-up (new crossmember, etc.), there are probably ways to revise/modify the front engine mounts to the new crossmember and/or frame if needed to go along with the change over. Just may take some engineering to figure in case someone else hasn't already done this.

Gdads,
Thank you for the pic. Now i can visualize how it could be done. Sadly I have the assembly manual, I have used it to research wiring, spot weld locations and how the break/ clutch linkage works. I had the information at my finger tips and flubd it. at least it wasnt a snake.

All good sir. Even if it had been a snake, I'm sure you had your anti-venom kit on hand to take care of that.

The Camaro/Nova/Monte... front clip has several good sides, depending on what matters to you: Sturdy, OEM design that will carry your truck without effort (some people think the Mustang 2 system is too flimsy...), including daily or real truck use. It is also easy to find spares anywhere when you need repairs, and there is a lot of aftermarket options available. I also quite like the factory looks of the sheet metal A-arms, as opposed to the "fancy" looks of aftermarket kits.
I have a '77 Camaro front clip under my '57 Suburban, and it is the perfect width.
As for mounting an older engine on those clips, you may have to be creative... Although, if you just like an inline 6, the 250 engine came stock in '70s Camaros...

FWIW .... My '49 3804 retains its original straight axle & factory steering. I'm running a 261 with a 4.11 gear set in my rear axle. Mine is a low mileage truck and I have very little wear or play in my steering. I routinely cruise at highway speeds without any issues. Things do get a little hairy above 70 MPH but I see little purpose in going that fast in an antique truck anyway. There was this one time ... on MD 32 near Ft Meade, MD when I went across a bridge trying to keep up with Sweet on the way to Billy Marlow's. I was doing 72 Chris was probably 75 to 80. Things became a handful hitting the bridge joints and I dropped back to 65 for the rest of the trip. Sweet's truck has its original front axle, too.

Summary -- 55-65 No problem. 70 and up -- can be a handful. I don't mind cruising the right lane. In fact, I prefer it.

Hi Rodg. One thing I will mention...and this may not be an issue to you but would be important to anyone hoping to keep their truck looking the same as stock...you will have to lower your clearance between 2 and 5 inches depending on which "kit" you choose. A clip from another vehicle will produce the same results unless you use a front end from a late 60s Chevy truck (and this will add a great deal of weight when compared to the straight axle). And you may spend extra to keep 6 lug wheels. Just in case this is important to you. You will also have to lower your rear end by the same amount. This will alter one important aspect of your truck. You will not be able to load 1000 pounds of stuff in the bed and avoid bottoming out on any sort of bumpy road. Again just in case that is important.

Personally I'm a fan of "look like stock" even though I've come up with improvements that change and improve some stock issues. And as others have said a straight axle is fine as long as everything is in good shape and as long as you don't try to drive too fast. Once I was satisfied my front end and steering box were okay, I'd adjust my caster at 2.5 degrees and go with that. It will keep you tracking straight, will pull you out of curves nicely and won't make you struggle too much to steer in town. Please pay attention to the width of your tires, also. You ought to find your pickup steers and drives better with wheels/tires that mimic stock as much as possible. Please take a look and see if your truck included a front end sway bar. Some did and some didn't. It is important for either a straight axle or independent front suspension. Good luck!

Might want to get a little more caster wedge in there, that would help high speed handling, as well as ensuring thrust angles are good, axles straight, etc.

Otherwise yeah, it's an antique truck and not a race car. 60-65 is plenty.

I went with a custom 4" drop front straight axle. I rebuilt and modernized the steering linkage. I rebuilt my stock steering box. I added EPAS Perfirmance electric P/S and a Howe 1:1.5 steering quickener. I put a 15" ring on the steering wheel and used a 59 truck wheel for the turn signal mech and a place for my cruize control. I don't plan on driving over 175 MPH.