I need to remove the rear leaf springs on my 1955 3100 first series. Has a separate thread already been posted that covers this? Removing the associated nuts is straightforward and I was specifically wondering if I need to remove the zerk fittings at either end of the leaf springs in order to fully remove the leaf springs? Any tips on hidden fasteners/pins that may be holding things in place are much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Nothing hidden. Support the rear axle AND the frame. Remove the shock absorbers, the front spring pivot bolt, the carriage bolt at the rear shackles and pry the plates off the pins (tapered) - you might need to remove the zerks if the plates don't come off easily. If you disconnect the driveshaft, and have the wheels on it, with the frame high enough you can roll the whole rear axle out from under the truck (you'll need to disconnect the brake line between the frame and the axle on the right side.) There are 4 nuts on the u-bolts on each side to remove the springs from the axle. Here's a diagram from the Factory Assembly Manual with the fasteners highlighted you'll need to remove.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Beware, the shackle pins are threaded into the leaf springs. There is a brass or steel bushing in the leaf spring that the shackle pin threads into that can be replaced. The front bolt is threaded into the spring hanger with a lock nut on the inside that comes off first. The taper shackle pins might need a swift hit with a hammer to get them loose, don't be underneath the spring when you hit them! All the earlier trucks are this way.
I just replaced my front and rear springs on my 51. Don’t lift your rearend and put jackstands under it. Allow your leaves to be in a relaxed position and then put jackstands under it. If you have your springs loaded, you will get a little support when they rapidly move to a relaxed position. I had minimal flex on mine a I got away quickly laughing at my stupidity!
As others have said, front pivot hanger is threaded (not the bushing) and the shackle portion has a threaded bushing.
I found it easier to remove everything with zerk fittings removed.
