I was watching youtube (LGKustoms) and saw a guy drop a 30s front axle by placing the axle in a jig heating the end with a torch and stretching the axle with a bottle jack thus dropping the axle. Once done the axle was left in the jig till it was cooled.
My question is, does this affect the integrity if the metal and would it be a viable option on a straight axle truck?
Lots of options on dropping a truck, this one just puqied my curiosity.
Rock49 aka C-Rodg work in progress 1956 Chevy 3100 261 engine
By the you factor in the time and money you spend building a sufficiently accurate (and rigid) jig to drop the axle, you will have spent a lot more than you would pay someone who knows what he's doing to do the work for you. If you're planning to go into business doing it, and you have a customer base big enough to justify the investment, you'll probably break even about the 10th. axle you drop. That probably doesn't count how many axles you'll ruin during the learning curve. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
IMO, heating the axle won't affect it significantly. After all, it was once red hot when it was forged. To be totally sure, the entire axle should be heated cooled evenly. But you probably don't have the facilities to heat the whole thing to the same temperature. The problem with heating the machined ends (kingpin holes) is that it will then need to be re-machined. I would be more concerned about the welding he did on the top flange near the spring perches, which would tend to shrink there and pull the axle out of alignment at the spring perches. Also the track on the axle he dropped was narrowed a fair amount. If you look at the video www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGcG1oojZGU at about 19:40 you can see the axle shortening as he bends the second end.
I have to agree with Jerry on the cost of the setup to drop an axle. Just not worth it for a DIY on one axle.
Last edited by klhansen; 01/31/202610:42 PM. Reason: spelling fixup
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I agree, its all beyond my current skill set for working with metal. So no way I would do a one off DIY. When I saw the video it piqued my curiosity, so I had to ask those with knowledge. Thanks for the pointers on the video, I will go back and watch with a better understanding of what im seeing.
Rock49 aka C-Rodg work in progress 1956 Chevy 3100 261 engine
Sounds like a really cool class and it would be fun to learn the skill but not really cost effective. $450 for the class and you need to get your axle there. That's fine if you are local but travel expenses will add up fast. I bought this from Pete and Jakes through Superbell. It's 4" drop, custom width, roller king pin bearings and designed to leave the ground and safely return to earth. It's a full custom one off and it was only $1000.
Man, I can't wait to see your truck when it's finished, Mick. I'm not even a hotrod / custom guy. I like everything stock, but the work you're doing on your truck is amazing.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
I think the cost of the class doing your own is $450. Or $400 for an exchange one. Or $600 outright. If something interests you enough to be a part of the process, the extra expense may not be a big issue. I would drive the 500 miles to do it if I decide to drop mine.
Last edited by rick46ia; 02/02/20264:22 AM. Reason: Price correctionI
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
I’ve talked to Sid numerous times. He’s a really good guy! He also put a 4” drop in my axle. If you are leaning that direction, I’d highly recommend letting him do the work for you so you know it’s done correctly.
Sid has been around HotRodding for quite some time. His quality is excellent and like Chris said he's a great guy to talk to.
He has accumulated a wealth of knowledge on straight axles, steering components and geometry. He tried to talk me out of a 4" dropped axle for my '59, I should have listened. 4 inches looks COOL but 3 inches is much more drivable.
Last edited by TUTS 59; 02/04/20261:43 AM. Reason: Spelling
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
At some point I may swap to 16" or 17" wheels, much later though.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
