The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Intake/exhaust re-install 1954 235

Hey Bolters,

I’m just about ready to reinstall my stock exhaust and intake manifold and have read through most posts about this same task. I have a couple specific questions I want to double-check.
1) on the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe connection do you guys use that exhaust sealer/goo to make a great seal in addition to the gasket and donut? What torque should I use? I have bolts and nuts here and no studs
2) the suggestion that we assemble intake and exhaust loosely and tighten once in place is helpful but what are the torque values for the intake to exhaust union?
3) just to verify, I should hang my exhaust on the end studs and use no nuts but should have all 6 bolts and clamps across the manifold? My truck was missing the center bolt. I read gradually tighten to 25-30 ft lbs starting at the center and working out in passes until I get up to torque
4) regarding the carb (Rochester) should I put a gasket between the manifold and the Bakelite spacer? My truck only had one between the Bakelite and the carb. Also what torque value for the carb?

I’m very excited to see how things run and sound with the new gaskets!

1) I use the donut only on the exhaust pipe to manifold. But I suppose it might depend what sort of flange your exhaust pipe has.

2) Intake to exhaust union - I think there is a torque spec in shop manual. I would have to look it up.

3) You will need the clamp thingee anywhere the exhaust and intake share a bolt between them. I never had a good way to use a torque wrench there, so “tight” was good enough.

4) I don’t have a gasket between my Bakelite spacer and the manifold, but I don’t see what harm it could do. Don’t sweat the carb nut torque. Just nice and snug but don’t go gorilla and break or warp anything.

Use the big brass nuts for the exhaust pipe to manifold so they won’t rust on ,you may have to use a lock washer with the brass nut as mine used to loosen off .

Thanks for your feedback. Here’s my exhaust flange and the pipe without and with the donut. I think you are right that gasket isn’t going to do anything and might interfere with the donut. Might be why the last donut broke.

I’ll just snug my bolts up like my VW buddies say: “Gütntight”

Yes, do this. The brass nuts are worth it.

Here are the torque specs listed in the 1948-51 w/52 Supplement Truck Shop Manual (1st pic below) and the 1949-53 w/54 Supplement Car Shop Manual (2nd pic below) covering your '54 235 manifolds.

I t appears to me that you have a mismatch between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe. Your manifold is designed for a donut, while the exhaust pipe is designed for a flat gasket.
Will a donut seal this mismatch? Probably. Is it ideal? Probably not.
I have seen what can be described as a hybrid donut which only has the taper on one side while the other side is flat which will seal your exhaust pipe better.
I do not know who carries that part however.

Here is what my muffler guy did for the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe connection. The sleeve slips inside the exhaust pipe and stops just far enough to hold the donut in place.

Kevin, My exhaust shop referred to it as a fire ring, mine didn’t have one and the gaskets kept failing. Not a problem any more.