The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors 1953 speedo removal

If this needs to be in a different forum location feel free to relocate. I'm trying to pull the speedo out of my '53 3600 so as to send it away to have it refurbed. I've spent several days standing on my head under the dash trying get the %$@*& thing out! It took me 3 hours the first day to get the upper and lower nuts closest to the passenger side removed. The next day about the same amount of time got me the upper nut from the driver side only. The bottom still has refused to give up after spending about the same amount of time today. I can't even see the thing regardless of where I try to put myself. The stamped steel bracket that supports the steering column is right in the way. I bought a set of nut drivers at O'Riley's, so far that isn't the key. Any input that might help?

It’s been way too long I removed my Speedo. I need to crawl under and see if I find anything that blocks my access to the lower left mounting nut.

I just went through this tortuous procedure with my 1953 3100 a couple of months ago and as a 'seasoned citizen' absolutely understand your pain. A thick foam pad in floor helps when standing on your head. I made myself a few notes which may or may not help but here they are:

Disconnect battery cables
1) Remove radio speaker panel (4 nuts X 3/8 with washers) This give lots of room to see & reach gauges
2) Remove choke and throttle cables completely.
3) Loosen ignition switch (2 original type screws on bottom of dash) 
 *PH3 bit-head will work. 
* Ignition switch can be carefully moved out of the way without disconnecting wiring.
4) Four 3/8 nuts secure speedometer to dash. Right side are visible & not to difficult.
 Left side screws are hard to see & reach, - must feel & remove with 3/8 driver.
5) Remove speedometer cable & 3 electrical bulbs at back of unit. 

*3 bulbs are plugged into the back of speedometer unit. A black wire & bulb is the bright/dim and plugs into the top of speedometer. Two white wires with bulbs are for illumination and plug into either side of speedometer.

BTW, I purchased a new speedometer than looks exactly like original except center circle area is a bit darker for $137.00 plus shipping. Might be less expensive than having old speedometer rebuilt.

Some folks like to remove the speaker grille to provide more access to behind the dash and the speedo. Otherwise I've found that using a 1/4" drive ratchet with a bendable/flexible extension and deepwell 1/4" socket will aid in getting that last stubborn nut off.

Here's an example of the Flex Extensions I'm referring to.

I did this last year and the way to make this job go much easier is to remove the radio speaker grill.

This gives you a lot of room to get your arm behind the dash to finagle nuts off of the studs. I did not remove the choke and throttle cables to gain access. I was able to reach behind the speedo while sitting on the seat without having to lay on my back under the dash.

I did not need to remove the steering column, brackets, or anything else.

I used a 1/4" drive socket wrench with an extension and just felt around under there to get the socket on the nut.

When it comes time to re-assemble, use knurled brass nuts instead of hex nuts. They can be installed by hand and tightened sufficiently with two fingers.

So far I'm about up to speed here. I've remove speaker grill, choke cable, and untied column mounts which wasn't of any help anyway. I guess more time being acrobatic to get that last stubborn nut to give up will be on todays to do list. I appreciate all the replies and pointers.

Come back and tell us when you get it off and then reinstall the rebuilt one.

I sent my speedo to Jim Carter last in 2024. They did a fabulous job on the rebuild.

I'll do that! Thanks.

To all that became involved, I finally got the danged thing out. It'll get boxed up and sent out tomorrow. After I reassemble the steering column mount. Got tired of dinking with it today! Thanks again, and I'll post a pick of the gauge with all its new make up when I get it back.

Don't forget to go to Ace Hardware and buy some knurled brass nuts. I used them on the speaker grill, too. You can sit on the seat and assemble everything so easily that way.

This can be done while sitting on the bench seat by removing the speaker grille and by embracing your inner Helen Keller.
She was blind, couldn't speak and couldn't hear, yet learned how to read braille.
These 3 traits will come in handy for the bench seat method.
1) Close your eyes and focus on what you can feel.
2) Don't speak because all that will come out is cuss words.
3) Don't listen to your wife, or the neighbors 3 houses down if you can't abide by #2 above. (That's what I typically have done.)