Hello Stovebolters, The gauge lights are not working properly in our 1952 3100. I regularly must turn the headlight switch knob back and forth numerous times and rapidly to get the gauge lights to come on. A second problem is that the gauge lights are very dim and will not brighten even with turning the knob further. Our pickup has been changed over to 12 volts many years ago. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Chuck 52
Most likely the potentiometer that controls the dash lights is either worn or dirty. It would take a replacement headlight switch to fix it. You might be able to remove the switch and clean the coils on the potentiometer. Picture has an arrow pointing at the potentiomenter. Replacement switches available from Jim Carter. LINK
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Chuck, I've never driven a car in my life where I thought I needed to dim the dash / instrument panel lights. I've always kept them turned all the way up to bright.
Ol' Roy's instrument panel lights also only worked intermittently (mostly never).
Rather than buy a new switch that is probably junk from China like most things today, I simply removed the switch, disconnected the instrument panel wire from its terminal, and installed it on the parking light/taillight terminal.
This way, the instrument panel lights come on full bright whenever the headlight switch is pulled out to one notch or two notches.
It works perfectly and I don't have to worry about treating it with kid gloves or hope the dash lights don't blink out.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
The potentiometer on the switch in my ‘52 was broken in two. I was able to get a reproduction switch that matched and operated exactly like the original. It uses the original knob and shaft. Although pricy, it is an option.
Here is a link to LMC Truck that will give you some options.
Last edited by Phak1; 12/31/20252:45 PM. Reason: Typo
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Some time back I wrote instructions on how to revive/rebuild your headlight switch and make it like new again. Here is a link: https://tinyurl.com/y6f3lbgs
Hope it is helpful.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
I`ve had great results using this spray lube/cleaner. Working the switch L-R. I`ve yet to run into a light switch that could not be fixed. That being said, what Otto suggested sounds like a good option. Would have saved me from accidently leaving my dome light on.
~ BD. "You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker 1958 Apache Stepside 1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel 1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
On the light switch, I moved the wire to the instrument lights from the rheostat to the taillight terminal. Instrument lights are on when the taillights are on; problem solved. Did the same with the parking lights.
So now when pulling my light switch out. First stop has parking lights, taillights and instrument lights. Second stop (pulled all the way out) adds headlights.
Last edited by Gord&Fran; 01/02/20264:49 AM. Reason: clarify
......First stop has parking lights, taillights and instrument lights. Second stop (pulled all the way out) adds headlights.
Almost, but not quite...First stop has parking lights, taillights and instrument lights. Second stop (pulled all the way out) adds headlights and turns off parking lights.
At least that is how it works on my '52 GMC.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Wow, Thanks to Kevin, Carl, Otto, Phak, Jon, Guitplayer, Rusty Rod, Gord and Fran and Bill. Great suggestions - I will go down the list and give your suggestions a try. (soon as it warms up - 10 degrees here in Michigan as I write this.) With owning our '52 for over 30 years and being a stovebolter for most of those years your suggestions have been a great help many, many times in the past. Thanks again. Chuck
That’s a classic worn headlight switch issue. The dimmer for the gauge lights is built into the switch, and over time it gets dirty or worn out. That’s why you have to spin the knob to make the lights come on, and why they stay dim.
You can try pulling the switch and spraying electrical contact cleaner into it, then rotate the knob back and forth a bunch of times. Sometimes that fixes it.
If not, the switch likely needs to be replaced. Also double check that you have 12 volt bulbs in the gauges and that the cluster has good grounds, since both can cause dim lights.