The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Air filter

I will be replacing my Rochester B carb with a rebuilt one soon. I may continue using the oil bath filter. However, I am thinking about converting to a paper filter assembly. I would probably go with a 14" filter for air. Can anyone recommend an assembly that looks kinda retro and fits the carbs mouth? The od is 2 5/16". Always appreciate everyone's input. My Chevy is a 1950 3100 we were both produced that year. James in Virginia

I use this on my '50 3100. You can find them on ebay now and then.

It originally used an oil impregnated mesh filter rather than an oil bath filter. It came to me with the paper filter and I just left it the way it is. I've since found out that the oiled mesh filters are available from the restoration suppliers.

It's 6 inches in diameter and the 216 breathes just fine with it.

I don’t have a part number handy, but the larger oil bath for the heavy-dutier early trucks takes basically zero work to convert to paper. The lid is separate from the oil bath filter element piece, so you just leave that bit out and swap a paper element into the bowl piece.

Easy-peasy and looks stock, IMO.

I actually like the IDEA of oil bath filtration, but I am INCAPABLE of not spilling oil everywhere when I need to remove the filter. Personal choice based on my personal limitations.

JW51 what carb is that on there ? I am also curious about the choke is that an auto choke converted to a Manuel choke ? I have a Carter auto choke and was going to try and get the conversion kit to work smoothly.

Carter YF 2100s- manual choke.

You already have a manual choke conversion kit? I’ve never dealt with one, but they look pretty straightforward.

James - If you'd like to keep the original look of the oil bath cleaner (similar to what JW51 did), here's a Legacy Air Filter Upgrade TechTip from back in April of 2016.

It's still a valid way to convert your setup to a paper style filter and keep the original appearance. There are other threads over the years that other folks have done something similar. You can find them by using the Stovebolt Search.

If you are set on changing the full housing and getting something with the diameter you mentioned, it will probably entail some fabricating as the only current type of aftermarket dry filter setups are all on the small side, like these offered by The Filling Station. All are only about 4" diameter overall. You could use the base and try to adapt it to work with a larger diameter filter assembly if that's the look you're interested in.

You didn't say if your carb uses a clamp or a stud to hold the air cleaner on. I believe there are adapters. My carb is a newer model, using the stud.

I used a standard after market air cleaner, available at almost every auto part store. Comes with fitting for PCV intake. These are built to fit 4bbl carbs, so I made an adapter to fit the Rochester using a surplus headlight bucket.

The 14" air cleaner would look too big, IMO.

BTW, the after market air cleaner was considered a "period correct accessory" when I applied for my collector plates. Non period correct accessories are grounds for rejection.

Thanks the fuel filter threw me off ,I have the conversion kit and was tinkering with the cable as it has to be moved out to line up with the adapter cap but yes it is straight forward just have to tinker to get the cable to move smoothly.Kevin

Gord n fran, how would any inspector be able to tell what was a "period accessory" on a 75 year old truck.

Beats me. I don't make the rules. Seat belts, brake upgrades and other safety updates are also permitted.

Rules

Nice to see the rules.
Does your Baby Blue color(colour)
qualify? 😇

Of course, those rules only apply in Canada.

I don't know of any such rules in the USA. In Georgia, the vehicle just needs to be 25 years old or more to get antique vehicle plates. Most people I know just get regular plates, year of manufacture plates, or some sort of vanity plate. The Georgia antique vehicle plate has a picture of a Ford Model T on it. Who wants that on any vehicle other than a Model T?

I think as a "collector" ..the truck should be kept original for "collector" plates , aside from safety modifications.
Brakes .steering , belts. I recently had a Trooper out here to look at my 1958.
I doubt the young fella knew what he was looking at. Report :original body on original frame.
Collector plates are non-renewable here. Saving $85 a year. One and done.
That fella was driving one of those new Interceptors. Probably do 180mph no problem.
sorry ..off topic.

Yes, I shouldn't have mentioned it. Sorry, James.

Gord -- Personally, I am quite offended by your use of non-period correct hose clamps.
Harrumph.

John

John makes a good point even in jest. At what point will the so-called inspectors decide that there are too many modifications for it to be considered a collector vehicle?

And how would they even know what is period correct and what isn't?

Maybe it's like the old definition of pornography, I'll know it when I see it. I guess maybe they're trying to exclude hot rods or vehicles with major body modifications or modern engines.

One of the qualifications says vehicles with no body damage. So I guess that excludes a truck like Old Roy who came by his dents and scrapes naturally over time and was never repaired yet still has all of its correct mechanical parts with no modifications even to the brake system or electrical charging system.

All very subjective.

James - Here's another on topic thread on air filters that you might find interesting.

Lots of different things some fellow Bolters have done to switch from an oil bath to dry element filter. Just some more food for thought.

I would just leave it as an oil bath. That was on option back then and lots better than the oiled metal gauze of the standard production. Bear in mind that the more expensive cars retained an oil bath air cleaner after the cheaper cars had gone paper. Otto would probably know when Cadillac went to paper. And heavy trucks had them into the 80 and changed when fleets wanted lower maintenance costs. Apparently its cheaper to pay for the paper filter than pay the mechanic to pull the bottom of the air cleaner, scrape the junk out of the bottom, clean it and pour in new oil. Also when diesels occasionally "ran away" they could suck oil out of the filter and keep on running even if the fuel was shut off. And by that time compression releases were a thing of the past so they couldn't be shut down that way.

All responses were appreciated. I'm not going to get into converting my oil bath air filter any time soon. I will just continue using the oil bath filter. I a quick and easy conversion to a paper filter might be a more appealing choice that still allows proper air flow.

I will ask this however. Is kerosene the preferred solvent to clean the oil bath filter? I don't tend to have kerosene on hand. Are there other solvents that work as well or better? Does the procedure require a rinse and dry or can the kerosene or other solvent be allowed to drip out and and air before reinstalling?

I'm wondering how mechanics serviced the air cleaner in a short amount of time for their customers.

Gasoline is a great solvent/cleaner, I use it for many degreasing projects, then if needed I finish with brake cleaner or engine degreaser and hot water. Most folks have gasoline on hand, it's less expensive than canned cleaners.

I don’t have my truck registered as a collector, but I do show it in the stock class when available.I list that it’s a 261 with 216 bolt on components. I am working on the paper filter conversion. My original oil bath filter is in great condition. So I acquired another one to modify. I cut top (now lid), and uncrimped the bottom baffle from its tube. Added a 1” spacer and filled the slots. I tried to maintain an appropriate 3/4” gap. I made part of the oil bath tube into a sleeve to fit over the filter to act as a temporary “dummy” part to throw off onlookers (maybe?). I still need to patch my tack weld holes and paint the dummy sleeve. The Wix 46078 fits great in the lid. This is my version, similar can be found on you- tube also.

We did very similar filter conversions. One change I made a year or so ago was to buy the cheapest large, nylon pantyhose I could find and made a prefilter for the air filter. Slips right over and (I think) makes it look a bit more original. With the mesh on top and bottom of the filter sealing surfaces I added a hefty bead of chassis grease to ensure a good seal.

RonR

I don't think there were pantyhose in 1950, so you couldn't let it show. ;-)

Pantyhose came out in 1959, but nylon stockings would be period correct. They were available in the late 30's.

... and silk before that.