The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Securing 1940 Half Ton rear axle wheel stud

What is the best method for securing the wheel studs into the rear axle without having the peening tool they used back in the day that peened the entire circumference at once?

I'm not sure what you want to peen. The 476514 bolt was used for almost 35 years. You press them out and pull a new one in.

According to the shop manual they were to be peened after install. It looks like they had a tool for that. I was under the impression they just pulled in as well because when I look at the two axles neither look peened. Here is my issue - one of the studs is loose fitting so it doesn't stay in. I thought the peening process would take care of that. If I don't peen them, how do I get that loose fitting stud to stay? I did not buy new studs so maybe a new one would fit tighter??

You might have to buy a new stud with slightly larger diameter shaft

This.
Automakers have quit peening in wheel studs years ago.

The peening process was called "swaging" and it was done with a special hollow punch for an air hammer. A new stud will probably have a slightly wider spline that can be pressed into the hub or axle flange and cut new splines as it's installed. DO NOT try to pull a new stud in with a lug nut- - - -you'll stretch the thread and weaken the stud. Either use a hydraulic press, a ball joint press, or an air hammer on the back side of the stud.
Jerry

"DO NOT try to pull a new stud in with a lug nut" - Thank you for that statement Jerry. I don't have a press so I was actually thinking of snugging it with the lug nut and tapping it from the back to help seat it in a slow process. I will now device a "press" method with tools an/or equipment I do own.

If you have the axle shaft removed, use a big C clamp and a deep socket for the threaded part to push into. Tighten the clamp, and then hammer on the jackscrew. Keep tightening and hammering until the spline seats. That will keep the thread from getting stretched.
Jerry

I had some studs from Barry Weekes auction but the knurled length was shorter. Barry had them labeled 40 half ton rear so I figured they would work, but I was afraid I wouldn't be able to swage them properly so I started this thread. Finding no need to swage them, I did get a new one installed. Similar to the method Jerry mentioned, only I used a large vise to press it in place. The new stud with fresh knurling seems to have seated tightly in the same hole in the axle. Thanks everybody. As always, this group comes through and builds my confidence in what I am trying to accomplish.

Good show! I'm in the process of installing new, longer wheel studs on one of my trailers so I can space the wheel track width out about 3" wider. I'm also going up one size on the stud thread from 1/2" to 14MM. I did the conversion of the first hub with an anvil, a punch, and a BFH, but the next three will be done in a press. Too much work the other way!
Jerry