The Stovebolt Site Forums Welcome! Welcome Centre Do It Yourself (DITY) Gallery 1946 Chevy 1/2Ton in Utah - "Here We Go"

That's a 1960

That's the base model Biscayne.

It's a 60. The emblem on the grille says it came from the factory with a 283 V8. And unless a bunch of chrome was added later on, it left the factory as a BelAir.

I took my driver's license test in my Dad's '60 BelAir 4 door. 235/3 speed with A/C.

Yes it's a '60. I always was told the 'V' on the trunk designated a 283 V8. I never heard about the front emblem. Supposedly a 'V' with crossed flags was a 327 or 348.

You are correct.

No 327 in 1960. The V on the front (or rear) designated a V8, 283 or 348. The crossed flags designated a 348

Continue to slowly get some wiring completed. I have the rear light installed, but not wire up yet. I also installed a horn relay (not sure I need it, but installed anyway). Trying to install a wire clamp, but need another person to help reach inside the cab as the bolt is pushed in through the firewall.

I was looking at the lights/brackets I bought 20 years ago and was thinking about "antiquing" them to match the truck? I did replace the 6v bulbs with 12v.

John - Did you get sidetracked a wee bit sir? Run out of stuff to post on your truck? Just saying, you're veering off course just a tad between Magilla and the '59 "not-a-truck" which are both more Greasy Spoon topics.

PS - You other fellows aren't helping out here ya know.

Yes Sir! Back on track Sir! No more goofing off.

You're good sir! You got your self back on your excellent project and reporting just fine (which I really enjoy following), right about the time I was stubby fingering my post.

Looking forward to your "thoughts" on adding some patina to those shiny tail light brackets.

I wouldn't fake up the taillights. They look fine. Would a farmer in the 1950s worry that the new parts he installed on his truck were too shiny? Would he scuff up the chrome with sandpaper and dull the paint? Heck no.

My truck only came with one tail light, but I'm adding the other. Old light and bracket had some patina and it looked like someone did a little welding on it. I don't think I want extra work to "fake up" the new lights. I think I'll let Mother Nature take care of that for now.

That's my philosophy. My truck only had one tail light also but a previous owner installed two cheapo round plastic trailer tail lights. They look okay and most people wouldn't know that they're not supposed to be there but I don't like the idea that they're plastic but they're going to stay there probably forever

While you have the light off, take it apart and paint the inside bright white. It'll help make it brighter. Keep the paint out of the lamp socket.

Hey! That sounds like a great idea. I never thought to do that. Thanks for the tip Bill! 😀

My wiring has been a slow process, but I did get some completed today. I made a new wire from the starter to ammeter, I mounted the ballast resistor to the firewall and plugged in the ignition wire. Then, I added the wires to the coil and the distributor. I looked at the distributor on my 216 and it had a ground wire to the engine block, so I might do the same (not sure if it's needed though).

Oh, and I did get the first coat of white paint on the inside of my tail lights.

I know you converted to 12v from 6v so grounding issues are less of a concern but I'd go ahead and installl the ground wire anyway. Can't be too careful with electricity. Just scrape the paint at the attachment point to bare metal..

I was also planning to scrape some paint on the inside of the light housing, so the little bracket is touching metal. Looking at my pictures again and I forgot to add the fuse, but I'm planning to get that done today.

Let's see - Got the tail lights put back together and mounted. Of course I tightened one a little too much and the lens cracked. Such is life - got a new one ordered. Next, I spliced in a fuse for the wire from the starter to the ammeter. Then, I added a ground wire to the distributor and a ground strap from the bell housing to the frame/cab.

that ground strap may not be what you want. Those are good for lights ground to the cab.
I`d use a # 4AWG

That ignition wire from the coil to the ballast resister looks like it's stretched to the limit. I'd make another one with a couple extra inches added to relieve the stress when the cab goes one way and the engine goes another.

Also, don't forget that the dizzy rotates counter-clockwise to advance timing and might pull on the two wires attached to it.

I don't know the gauge on that ground strap, but I do have a 4-gauge on the shelf.


All the wires have slack in them. I have extra wire through the firewall that I can pull out if needed. I did turn the dizzy to make sure there was no wire tugging, but I can add an inch or two to be sure.

You're probably good, then. That red wire on the coil just looks like it's stretched tight in the picture.

Here's a better angle from the top showing the red coil wire.

Aren't you going to need a bypass wire from the start switch directly to the coil? You should have the stomp start switch with the auxiliary terminal that's hot when you engage the starter so you get a full 12V to the coil.

It looks to me like the wire lengths are fine.

YES! I was just reading about that and how it works. I plan to get one of those switches for my starter. Thanks for the reminder Kevin!

Picked up a new start switch at NAPA today and got it installed with a bypass wire to the coil. Thanks Kevin!

Geez John, after all your hesitation about tackling your electrical it seems like you’re going great guns. You better slow down. You’ll want to time it so your truck is road-ready a day before the roads become reliably clear. Everything looks well thought out and better than “factory fresh”.

this wire is most likely not near long enough. IMHO.
But maybe so. Looks problematic even if there is slight relief.

Thanks Paul. I'm building some confidence in my wiring abilities. I was very worried when I first opened the harness bag - wires everywhere and a little panic set in. On the days I don't wire, I at least look at it and separate wires into groups and make a plan for the next step. A little slow for me, but I'm doing it and feeling good about it. The guys here have some good suggestions and have been very supportive - that helps a lot!

An 80-year-old truck is the perfect vehicle to practice on. It only has about eight or nine circuits.

Be glad you're not working on a mid-50s Cadillac or a 1979 Mark V Continental. Aye Carumba!

As long as we are criticizing, I'd run the "bypass" wire from where it currently attached to the stomp switch, but put the other end on the bottom of the ballast resistor. Looks cleaner.

OK - I added about 1.5" to the wire from the ballast to the coil. It should have plenty of cushion to move now. Then, I re-routed the starter bypass wire - moved it from the coil to the ballast. It does look cleaner.

In reply to your post about going through Price/Helper, Utah.. when you take that little spur off Highway 6 to go into Helper, the corner is delineated by a tall sign that still somewhat reads 'Peck's Plants' and that was my Grandmother, Catherine Peck's annual business for decades. I spent a lot of time there shoveling coal into the greenhouse furnace augers, filling flats with soil, goofing off with the big garden cart.

Fond memories :-) But I reckon that's why so many of us are here.

Gee whiz - I've been a slug through these holidays. I need to get back to my "15 minutes per day" in the garage. All the Christmas sugar is wearing off and tomorrow is a new day. Here we go!

You got that right. I've gained 8 pounds since Thanksgiving.

Finally going again in the garage! The holidays really slowed me down. My niece came to town last week for basketball games against Utah and BYU (she plays for Baylor - #4 Van Gytenbeek). My sister and brother in-law stayed at my place and told me to get the truck done! Today I was able to get the front right fender mounted - so that's progress. The headlight buckets are not installed yet, just sitting there for looks. Feeling a little motivation again and that's good.

Guess I'll work on anything to shy away from the wiring, but I know I'm the one that needs to get it done. Today I drilled out a couple broken bolts from the lower valance and re-tapped them. Then I got the grille installed loosely. Looking more like a truck every day.

I was wondering when you were going to fill that gaping hole with grill. Looking good John. Don’t get in your own head about the wiring. You’re a smart guy and you’re methodical. Once you get started, it will go quickly.

Been reading a lot, going over things in my mind and making a plan of attack. I haven't been wiring, but I've been tracing each wire in the harness and following where each end attaches. Thanks for the encouragement, Paul!