The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Rear anti-sway/anti-roll bar

Gents,

I’m just curious how much bang for the buck a rear anti-roll bar is when it comes to handling. Plans are to take the truck on longer trips.

Truck: 1951 3100 with 261, leaf springs on all corners, and column shift. I upgraded the front end with a 4” drop and anti-roll bar on the front and 3” drop in the back.

Future: I’m replacing rear driveline with a 3sp w/OD, 3.90 rearend, and open driveline.

Thoughts?

Chris - If you go with this Classic Industries rear anti-roll bar kit, I think you will get the best bang for your buck. Lots of vendors offering what looks like a mostly identical kit, but most are far higher priced than Classic's.

I think it would be a nice companion to your already installed front anti-roll bar, but haven't ever run one on a truck myself. This kit will work with the existing torque tube rear, but also when you convert to the open drive* and may provide more noticeable control with the open drive.

*That is if you are planning on switching out your torque tube for a Task Force pumpkin and use the existing axle housing.

Does that kit utilize existing holes in the frame or whatever? Looking at the parts, I'm trying to figure out how it installs. U-clamps around the axle housing that hold a bracket for the end links? Bushings bolted to the frame?

I installed a rear anti-roll bar in my Camaro. Handling was noticeably improved, but the Camaro has light rear springs. I think that the heavy springs on the truck already prevents most roll and adding an anti-roll bar would have minimal effect.

I ditched the stock springs on my truck. I'm using springs from a Blazer which are much lighter. After bouncing it around, I don't think I need a rear anti-roll bar. If I put 1000 lbs in the bed it might be a different story but I'm not doing that. I have another truck for carrying the heavy stuff.

Gdad, I’m planning on using the existing axle when I change everything this winter. I will also be replacing the original rear leaf springs.

Gord, I’ve heard others that have done it and I can’t remember who. I was thinking the same thing with the rear leaf springs. I’ve considered lighter springs for the back also.

Removing a leaf or two from the original spring pack will probably soften the ride sufficiently unless you're planning to do "real truck" stuff frequently. That, along with a good set of shock absorbers will probably improve the ride and handling enough to make a rear antiroll bar unnecessary.
Jerry

Adding stiffness to the rear will reduce oversteer on turns. I've messed around with adding or subtracting spring leaves on the rear and prefer the chassis-roll characteristics of the stiffer springs but I'm afraid of shaking the camper apart and it's uncomfortable. I think a rear roll bar would have the same positive benefits without shaking things apart.

I’m not a physics major but on the race cars I drove rear sway bars were used to loosen the rear end (more toward oversteer). We would disconnect them in the rain or you could not catch the back end fast enough.
On a pickup with no load I would think the back end is inherently light, a rear sway bar might not be the best choice.
On my 46 which has new leaf springs the front anti sway bar made a huge difference, it is a stiff one though.
Chuck

Got rid of my side to side "sea sickness" effect when I put one on my 3106 Model (Suburban.)

How many gallons does that fuel tank hold? I wonder if I could adapt it to my 98 Suburban. 42 gallons ain't enough when towing.

That is an OEM 1951 Suburban tank. I believe it only holds 16 gallons. On a good day.