Does anyone know if I'd have any issues with sway bars on a bagged truck?
I've taken the truck down to the frame rails, added an 8 inch notch in the rear, added 5" blocks on top of the trailing arms, cupped the lower control arms, and added a watts link. I've been doing some research and it seems like it will work in the front as long as you verify the links don't hit the bags. The rear doesn't seem to be as clear as I've come across 2 different styles. One style has the bar on top of the frame (No Limit Engineering) and the other style has the bar on the bottom of the trailing arms.
Any input/experience would be greatly appreciated.
"Sway" (actually "anti-roll" bars) probably won't be needed on a truck that's been modified that extensively. The handling will be so terrible that it won't be possible to drive at any speed where an antiroll bar will be necessary. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I have not installed an anti-roll bar/sway bar on a bagged truck. However, it sounds like you have done some research. I wrote up this DIY when I did my C10. I list the parts recommended for a lowered truck. I have no idea if the bar will bind if you air out the bags. Here’s the DIY I wrote. LINK HERE
"Sway" (actually "anti-roll" bars) probably won't be needed on a truck that's been modified that extensively. The handling will be so terrible that it won't be possible to drive at any speed where an antiroll bar will be necessary. Jerry
Wow. Does your condescension come naturally or do you need to work at it?
I have not installed an anti-roll bar/sway bar on a bagged truck. However, it sounds like you have done some research. I wrote up this DIY when I did my C10. I list the parts recommended for a lowered truck. I have no idea if the bar will bind if you air out the bags. Here’s the DIY I wrote. LINK HERE
I have no knowledge or experience regards the front application. I did install the under the trailing arm sway bar on my standard height 66 short ss c10 (with stock trailing arms) Don’t know if it helped handling as I never drove it without the sway bar. Should work fine for you as the ground clearance is mostly set by the rear axle distance from the ground not the chassis. I installed mine thinking it might help and couldn’t hurt the overall handling
1966 C-10 Short Stepside HiPo Step-by-step ~ and on-going resto build in the Project Journals
Why would a bagged truck automatically handle bad? If you left the stock height knuckles intact and then ran it lowered, that would negatively effect handling. However most savvy modders are using dropped spindles which preserve the factory suspension geometry, other than putting the axle centerline higher up on the knuckle. The idea being that factory suspension travel and angles are preserved.
Why would a bagged truck automatically handle bad?
I don't understand that either.
Either way I moved ahead with this. I just finished installing a rack & pinion AND a sway bar. I'm now researching rear sway bars. I'm surprised at the different designs. This is just going to be a fun truck and I want it to handle like a go kart! LOL
Wow that looks pretty trick! What's the rack out of/made for? Are the tie rod lengths close enough to the originals so it won't bump steer? Just curious, no shade meant. Looks like it will handle pretty tight, to me.
Thanks guys. The rack is packaged as a kit specifically to fit the C10. I was told it started life as a Silverado. Very quality. It went together well. I haven't read anything about bump steer.
