What is the easiest way to remove and reinstall front lug studs on a 1941 1/2 ton, model AK, without destroying the grease baffle? Also, can anyone tell me the easiest way to replace worn steering/pitman arm balls? I have one that has a pretty good undercut and they are all out of round. Any help would be appreciated.
This is the link to another thread on the subject of rod end ball removal with video, worked well for me
As to wheel studs it gets complicated on the huck drum brake hubs as they are swedged in, i had a machine shop handle that, but others will go,there…
I might suggest to look hard over the entire brake system including master cyl at this point. Brakes are non optional, either they are rock solid or not safe.
If you find your drums are shot (grooved) and or over spec you are going to be spending $$ no matter what, at that point ( if you are in this situation) at least consider finding hubs/backing plates from a fellow bolter (who converted to discs) and switching them over to ‘54+ bendix backing plates, where you can go to local NAPA/ Rock etc and source drums, springs, cylinders, etc at reasonable costs.
Chuck
Last edited by Hanks custodian; 11/14/202511:26 PM.
Chuck - Your link doesn't go where you want it to it seems. Can you post the correct link or let us know where you found it please?
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Yes, I am going through the whole brake system, replacing every everything including the lines. The brake drums measured .060” over the maximum acceptable rebore diameter. So, they are shot. Leading me into replacing the studs. Thank you for the link on steering ball. I looked at the video for the tie rod ends. Is there a replacement for the drag link balls as well?
There are kits available to replace the balls on the drag link with the same ball type as original, not like the modern type in the video that Chuck linked. Some guys have replaced the drag link completely with a modern adjustable type, but I believe that requires reaming the holes in the arms with a taper reamer. I replaced the balls on my pitman arm and steering arm and used the socket rebuild kit on the original drag link, but used the modern style ends on the tie-rod.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
There's a tool specifically for the old drag links that works pretty well. Called --- wait for it ---- a drag link socket. But John has the right idea too.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
