I’d say it works very well with 3/16 brake line and plenty good enough when you get up to 5/16+. Have to kind of calibrate how hard you whack the vise grip depending on diameter of the tubing.
I still prefer to buy the straight sticks pre-flared when possible, but sometimes a run is long enough you can’t get those.
Last edited by John Milliman; 11/10/20258:40 PM. Reason: Made the link a hot one.
Pretty neat trick. I 3d printed a five roller straightener that mimics the vender bought type. I also printed additional wheels for different size tubing. It works great.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I'm using all stainless lines. I went all in and bought the nice straightening, bending, and flaring tools. The pricey straightener works very well but I have no experience with other ways. It's not a complicated tool and it makes me wonder why they cost so much. I have nitrous, fuel, and complete brake lines to do. I've completed the nitrous/fuel hard lines. For about $1k you can put a complete fire system in the cab and engine compartment so on a performance build why not? I have a 16 jet nitrous fogger plate on my Weiand 6-71 for my 292. To buy 16 short strait sections of 3/16" nitrous line with an A/N flair on 1 end was going to be $240. If I remember correctly I bought in the roll 30' for $40. 30' would have done it but this being my first time I messed up a couple and had to buy another roll. It won't go to waste. It's not as hard as it looks. I'm just an old carpenter and I pulled it off. I think it came out pretty good. I made the mount for the distribution block, mounted it and the drew out on a piece of paper actual size of the lines. I made one bend at a time and layed the line on the drawing and marked the next bend. My drawing had 90 degree lines on it and I just measured back the radius of my bender and started the bend there. No fancy math. That kind of recalibrated anything I was off on the previous bend. I started with the easy ones and had some practice by the time I got to the hard ones. Around the throttle linkage is where I made my mistakes. I guess my point is this is well worth doing and doable. A quick trip to the buffer shined them up.
Interesting trick, but he buggers up both ends of the tubing in the process. I just bought one of these and was done straightening by the time he had his tubing out of the package. Straightening is the easy part, but bending to the right shape is quite a bit harder. Mick, that's some purdy tubing bending right there.
Last edited by klhansen; 11/10/20256:31 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Moving this thread to the Driveline as the topic seems to be mostly on the working/fabricating of brake lines and the associated tools.
Depending on how the conversation continues, it could end up in the Tool Chest.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
I needed straight line to run new brake lines on a school bus at work. We had a piece of channel iron 4" wide and a handful of idler pulley bearings. I laid out 4 bearings on one side, 3 on the other spaced between the four so the tubing snakes its way through them. On each end we had one vertical to hold the tubing down. I used 3/8" nuts, bolts, and washers to give me room to adjust each bearing, the holes in the bearings were 1/2" or slightly bigger. One guy feed the line in while unrolling the coil, another pulled it through. A couple of passes through and we had a straight 50 foot piece of 1/4" brake line ready to use. It works like the hand held versions only ours was vise mounted and cost nothing to build with what we had laying around. The more bearings or rollers you have, the better it works.
I’d love to have a proper straightening tool, but don’t do this enough to justify. The “shock” method does produce a better result that trying to straighten by hand or on the floor. That tends to just add small bends in more places.
It ain’t perfect, but a definite improvement over other things I’ve tried.