The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest PVC air manifold lines

wow i just spent an hour doing resurch and reading horror stories on pvc pipe blow ups. one 3 foot underground blew a 3x4 hole in the ground im leaving my pvc. thats in the grond alone but as it inters the shop im riping it out and replaceing it with copper i would never forgive myself if someone got hurt after reading some of the things that have happed with the stuff to easy to get hurt on the safe stuff in a shop if you leave it in your shop cover it or rap it it may save someone my 2

wow i just spent an hour doing resurch and reading horror stories on pvc pipe blow ups. one 3 foot underground blew a 3x4 hole in the ground im leaving my pvc. thats in the grond alone but as it inters the shop im riping it out and replaceing it with copper i would never forgive myself if someone got hurt after reading some of the things that have happed with the stuff to easy to get hurt on the safe stuff in a shop if you leave it in your shop cover it or rap it it may save someone my 2

That black iron pipe is too good,,not sure why anyone would use plastic.

I plumbed my garge with copper after i bought my new compressor. I had pvc with the old one. now no worrys

I have a 36 by 26,shop,with a 15 by 36 attached woodworking shop.I have a 2 stg.compressor that puts out 175 PSI.However I have a regulator that throttles it back to 90 PSI for use.I ran 1/2 in.black iron pipe,throughout the shop,with a run going into the woodshop.I have all the air I need anywhere in either shop.I used the black iron just to be on the safe side.I have seen guys use the cheap copper pipe and get away with it,but I never thought too much of the soldered joints under that much pressure.I never even considered PVC,but if you feel comfortable with it,Good luck.

Were kinda missing the boat with the convential material for air lines. Copper or Aluminum is just about out of most of our price range anymore, and Black Pipe has it's drawbacks also, but have you ever thought about Hydraulic Tubing. At $1.00 a foot for 1/2" .065 wall and just over $2.00 for 1" .095 wall, compression fittings are going to be a little more expensive but not much. Safety is not a issue,unless you don't drain your tank and lines like you should, and that will be a issue with any systen you have. Adding extra drops is easy with a tubing cutter and a couple of fittings. Think about it for a while, I did it in my shops and am extremely happy with the results.

ok heres the poop from my side of the street , ya'all have me wonderin /worryin so i went up to see bud Mick , he has been in buisiness for ...I dont know close to 20 yrs ...he has a HD shop he does all , motors , genral fixin , his dad a machinest put in a shop in the basement to make/modify parts for the bikes ...i helped build that shop back then ...it is all run in pvc .....it has seen 20 yrs of use .
So I asked Mick on any probs ..?..NONE
just my 2 pennies

The PVC will degrade from age even when used with water and underground so that the sun's UV rays can't get to it. If you use one of the hand held ratcheting anvil type cutters, NEW pipe cuts clean. OLD pipe will shatter and crack ahead of the cutter. Becomes very brittle, but you can't see it by looking.

Black iron pipe does't rust that fast

If you use black pipe at the end of your run or at the lowest part of the loop have a "T" going down with a short pipe and a ball valve to blow the line down and that should clean the accumulated debri out. Always have your branch "T's" facing up and then elbow your branch down to another ball valve, a "T" for the quick connector, a short nipple (About 12") and another ball valve, this will make a trap for any moisture or debri.