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Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
I am trying to figure out where the thermostat temperature sensing bulb goes on a 235. I have a spot on top of the head which I thought was correct but I also have the same size thread just below the carb on the exhaust manifold which I have no idea what that is for. Both threads however are just slightly loose for the thread on the thermostat sensor. So first off where should this go and secondly when switching to the 235 from 216 does it require a different size plug with a smaller thread? Lastly, what is the hole for that's under the carb?

As far as the pressure sensor line, I see one end is slightly longer than the other. Which end goes which?

Pics included.

Thanks for the help!
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20251015_152053.jpg (144.34 KB, 188 downloads)
20251015_152057.jpg (131.78 KB, 187 downloads)
20251015_152114.jpg (48.99 KB, 189 downloads)
20251015_152120.jpg (53.59 KB, 188 downloads)

Last edited by Phak1; 10/20/2025 12:02 PM. Reason: Corrected title to reflect actual question
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,142
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,142
The temperature sensing bulb goes in the port in the head (second picture).
In your first picture, that's a port for a vacuum line (to the wipers and in the case of a vacuum operated 2-speed axle, for that.) It looks to me like that tapping has been enlarged for the vacuum requirements for a 2-speed axle. What did the engine come out of?
The last two pics look like the line between the oil gallery and the oil pressure gauge. It doesn't matter which end is which as long as the captive ferrule on the nut seals against the tube. It looks like in your pic #3 that the nut has been slid up the tube a bit. It would have been where the ring around the tube closer to the end. I would cut that compressed section of the tube off.

Last edited by Phak1; 10/20/2025 12:04 PM. Reason: Removed wording to reflect title change

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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U
'Bolter
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What Kevin said - Temp sensor on top. I ended up plugging my vacuum port on the intake manifold for now. I might decide to get electric wipers later.
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IMG_0809b.jpg (76.13 KB, 167 downloads)
IMG_9702b.JPG (86.9 KB, 167 downloads)


~ John in Utah
1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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The compression fitting on the oil line is a "one time use" item. Since it has slipped away from its original position, it will leak if the line is reinstalled. Cut the line back a little and acquire a new compression nut to install the line. The first time a new nut is tightened it swages itself into the copper tube, creating the indented section in the tubing and sealing itself. NAPA stores used to sell that nut- - - - -but they're getting a little scarce since they haven't been used much in the past 50+ years. There is a corresponding female fitting that the nut threads into.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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L
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To answer your question about where the thermostat goes;

Locate the top radiator hose. The lower end where the hose is clamped there are two bolts that hold that piece to the engine. If you take that apart, you are then looking at the thermostat.

Kent


1937 Chevy 1/2 ton
1942 Chevy 1/2 ton
1947 Diamond T Model 509
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton
1950 Chevy COE Model 5700 ~ "Barney" ~ And more pix
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U
'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Lightholder's Dad
To answer your question about where the thermostat goes;...

I know the OP was asking about the thermostat, but I'm thinking he was talking about the temp sensor since he was showing the hole where the sensor goes. But good to cover what he actually asked.
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IMG_0157a.jpg (130.49 KB, 140 downloads)


~ John in Utah
1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine
Here We Go
Follow in his DITY Bay

- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,142
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,142
Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
The compression fitting on the oil line is a "one time use" item.
I've reused captive ferrule fittings successfully, but if the tubing is already compressed, a new section should be used. At some point, the fitting won't tighten enough to be leak free, like Jerry said. But captive ferrule fittings are still available. HERE Probably other places as well.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
Thanks for all the replies and pictures. Very helpful. The port on the carb was plugged off so I will just put it back in.

Joined: Sep 2011
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B
'Bolter
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Hey jasrking, I the pics in your original post I noticed the valve cover has the hole for the fresh air inlet used with PCV system. I' ve only seen that on 261.
You might check the block cast number, capt. bars etc .

Last edited by Phak1; 10/20/2025 12:35 PM. Reason: Typo

BC
1960 Chevy C10 driver 261 T5 4.10 dana 44 power loc
1949 GMC 250 project in waiting
1960 C60 pasture art
Retired GM dealer tech. 1980 - 2022
Joined: Feb 2020
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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
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Posts: 76
thanks bc59.. i will check

Last edited by jasrking; 10/21/2025 3:57 AM.

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