I loosened my main caps in preparation of dropping the crank to install new rear main seal. Took off the front cap to make it easier to remove the old oil pan gaskets in the corner where it meets the cap.
There is an old paper gasket, or shim on the cap where it meets the front plate. Or maybe just used for protection during assembly?? Also, there appears to have been some sort of black sealant, or something??, possibly to keep oil from getting between the oil pan gasket and the front plate and leaking out?
Do I need to add sealant to the main cap? Just leave the old paper "gasket" in place, or is there a replacement for it? I haven't seen any kind of replacement.
Engine is a '59 235. See attached pic.
Thanks! Ron
P.S., might as well also ask here...do you guys use sealant on the timer cover, or just the gasket?
You might be able to get by with some RTV sealant between the front cap and the front engine plate, but there does need to be something in there. Oil could seep out from the front of the front main bearing or out of the timing cover. The "right" way would be to remove the timing cover and front engine plate, and replace the gaskets and the front crank seal. Depends on whether your front crank seal is needing replacement too.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Now thinking maybe someone had a leak and tried to remedy it by cutting the bottom half off a second front plate gasket and putting it between the cap and plate. The plate gasket doesn't look like it peeled in half.
Looks like you already have the balancer and timing cover off. You’d need to pull the cam out to get the plate off, but might just be a good time to replace the gasket. Stick the gasket and front plate on after you have the bearing cap in place.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Looks like you already have the balancer and timing cover off. You’d need to pull the cam out to get the plate off, but might just be a good time to replace the gasket. Stick the gasket and front plate on after you have the bearing cap in place.
Well, while I'm at it, maybe just get a little bigger cam too...
Rather than hassle with replacing the gasket, I'd use a brush-on sealer like Copper Coat or Permatex Super 300 between the main cap and the old gasket. You're more likely to cause more leaks the further you tear things apart, and I doubt that the rear timing plate gasket can be found anywhere other than in a full overhaul gasket set. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I believe the rear timing plate gasket comes with a timing cover kit. I've got extras. Yep, here's Fel-Pro's offering (pic). But like Jerry said, it's possible to seal it up without replacing the gasket.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Rather than hassle with replacing the gasket, I'd use a brush-on sealer like Copper Coat or Permatex Super 300 between the main cap and the old gasket. You're more likely to cause more leaks the further you tear things apart, and I doubt that the rear timing plate gasket can be found anywhere other than in a full overhaul gasket set. Jerry
Would you remove the piece of gasket that's stuck to the cap, or put the sealer on top of it?
If it wasn't leaking before, I believe I'd leave everything "as is", and just add a little sealer. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Rather than hassle with replacing the gasket, I'd use a brush-on sealer like Copper Coat or Permatex Super 300 between the main cap and the old gasket. You're more likely to cause more leaks the further you tear things apart, and I doubt that the rear timing plate gasket can be found anywhere other than in a full overhaul gasket set. Jerry
Yes, and very good advice. RTV has no place on any 1950's or 1960's, truck engines or what ever else.
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks. Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
