Need help from you T5 experts! I took off my T5 bearing retainer to shorten it for the swap. When I slid the retainer off, the race came halfway out. I could just tap on the shaft and the race came the rest of the way out. Immediately thought the retainer must be shot, as it doesn't seem like the race should come out that easily. I can push it back in by hand.
I watched a few videos online, and guys are just putting them in by hand, or in some cases just having to slightly tap on them. Is this correct? Seems like there should be at least some kind of press fit to keep it from spinning?
The front bearing retainer is not a press fit but it’s not sloppy either. There should be a shim behind the race to bring the main shaft end play to ZERO end play. Make sure you install the front bearing retainer correctly with the rounded boss at the top and the rectangular boss at 6 o'clock.
The front bearing retainer is not a press fit but it’s not sloppy either. There should be a shim behind the race to bring the main shaft end play to ZERO end play. Make sure you install the front bearing retainer correctly with the rounded boss at the top and the rectangular boss at 6 o'clock.
I was hoping you would see this post and respond. Thank you.
I would not say the race is "sloppy", but it comes out with almost no resistance. It will fall out easily on it's own by just turning the retainer upside down. Attached is picture of the shim and race. While the sides of the race look OK, the shim shows clear signs of the race spinning, as there is a groove worn into the center with raised ridges along the edges. I assume this is not normal and means I should replace the retainer?
Lugnutz- I’m in the midst of scoping what all is needed to do a jeep input shaft…for swapping into an S10 T5.
One thing I was wondering after watching your videos on the subject:
Is the “shimming for zero end-play” the same process on both the NWC and WC input shafts? Does a shim or two sometimes need to be added to take away the end play?
The front bearing retainer is not a press fit but it’s not sloppy either. There should be a shim behind the race to bring the main shaft end play to ZERO end play. Make sure you install the front bearing retainer correctly with the rounded boss at the top and the rectangular boss at 6 o'clock.
I was hoping you would see this post and respond. Thank you.
I would not say the race is "sloppy", but it comes out with almost no resistance. It will fall out easily on its own by just turning the retainer upside down. Attached is picture of the shim and race. While the sides of the race look OK, the shim shows clear signs of the race spinning, as there is a groove worn into the center with raised ridges along the edges. I assume this is not normal and means I should replace the retainer?
The front bearing and race are cheap. Replace both. Add the appropriate thickness of shim to bring the main shaft to zero endplay.
Lugnutz- I’m in the midst of scoping what all is needed to do a jeep input shaft…for swapping into an S10 T5.
One thing I was wondering after watching your videos on the subject:
Is the “shimming for zero end-play” the same process on both the NWC and WC input shafts? Does a shim or two sometimes need to be added to take away the end play?
The WC countershaft bearing must be shimmed correctly to endplay spec. The NWC countershaft floats and does not get a shim. The NWC countershaft endplay is restricted by the bearing on both ends. The WC and NWC main shafts should be shimmed to get endplay to zero.
