The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1961 C10 big block swap questions

Been gone for a while, but want to get started on my 61 c-10 engine swap. I need info from someone who's actually done this, looked all over the internet and nothing. It's really aggravating how lots of people lump these engine swap videos all together from 60-66, and 60-62 as most everyone here knows are totally different in frt. suspension. What I want to do is swap out my 235 for a 454 bb, but I am not changing my front suspension and I want to keep the original 4 speed trans, so what do I need to do for motor mounts in this case. I bought an original saddle mount for a small block from a member here, but changed plans to the bb and I don't believe that mount will work on a big block? Another question is if mounting the engine to the trans in the original location, is it going to clear the firewall. I'd really appreciate some actual experienced advice on this. Thanks in advance.

I've not done the bbc/'61 c10 swap. I did do the bbc/'66 c10 though. If you locate a '61 v8 bell housing that'll bolt up to the bbc & your stock rear motor mounts (I believe). All other related parts from the small block should work too. IE: clutch linkage (hyd clutch in your case, I think). Trans should bolt right up. Stock replacement v8 Starter should work.

Biggest issue will be getting the right flywheel. 454's (as you probably know) use a external balance system thru the flywheel & the harmonic balancer. In my case, I had a bellhousing that worked with a 168 tooth flywheel. So I checked out a stock replacement 454 flywheel for a '92 one ton truck engine like the one I have & it was for a168 tooth ring gear and I guessed that the balance weight would be correct. In my case, the auto mactic flex plate that my engine came with had the correct balance weight stamped on it, the new replacement flywheel had the same # stamped on it. In other words, make sure your flywheel is the correct balance weight & the correct ringgear size.

The firewall will need a little help from a 2lb hammer. I set my engine in place, as close as possible, and marked it with chalk so I'd know exactly where & how much to "massage" it. It's a small amount & not even noticable, imo. After setting engine in place after working out the front & rear mtr mounts, make sure the valve covers can be removed. If not, the firewall needs a little more help from the 2lb hammer. Also, decide up front if you're using stock valve covers or Tall covers like for a high lift cam with roller rockers. It'll make a difference on how much firewall clearance you need.

For my swap, I used '66 Corvette 427 exhaust manifolds. The frame needed a little clearance work. You'll have to figure out what'll work best for your swap.

Don't know what to tell you about the front engine mounts. You're on your own there. On my '66, I used the original 6 cyl f rame mounts with stock 66 engine mounts . I modified the frame mounts a litle so my carb would sit a level as possible.

That's about all I've got, but it should be enough to get you started. Good luck with the project.

Thanks for the info, can use all the help I can get on this.

You may discover that the 60-62 V-8 bellhousing (hydraulic clutch type) is a rare and expensive component.
The last one I saw for sale was over $300. It will mount in the same location on the crossmember as the 235.
Fred

Yes I know, bought one here a couple years ago from a member along with the saddle front mount for a small block, don't think that mount will work on the big block though. I think the motor mounts are my biggest issue. Thanks.

If you need a little extra firewall clearance, the stamped steel tub from an inexpensive wheelbarrow is about the right shape to make firewall modifications without a lot of pounding with a BFH.
Jerry

I moved the V8 forward exactly 2" in the engine bay on my '65. Since it's a Cadi V8, #1 cylinder is on the other side, so the driver's side firewall had clearance only after I massaged it a little with a hammer. Those 2" made a HUGE difference-spark plugs are easier to get, valve covers and head bolts may all be removed easily. The best part is, there are already holes in the frame, on each side, exactly two inches forward of the transmission mount crossmember. So you can push it forward with a Porto-Power til those holes line up, stick some bolts through and after you measure everything up to make sure it's square, proceed to drill and bolt all the rest of the crossmember holes to their new places on the frame.

I wish I'd done this mod back in the '90s when I first swapped engines. The downside is I had to have a 2" longer front driveshaft made, but the upside is vastly improved access.

For the front mounts, I used the original riveted on frame horn mounts from the small block, modifying them with flat plates to fit the engine mounts of the Cadi. However, if your year came with a 348/409 option, the holes in the frame are already there, you can just move those frame horns around as needed.

The short version of the above, is move it all forward two inches and you'll solve a bunch of clearance problems. Of course, you'll also need to move the transmission shifter and park brake (if it's on the trans) holes. But that's easily done with a sabre saw.