The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Valve side cover panel

Folks 216 stovebolt, is there anything to watch out for or advice on replacing the gasket on the side cover located behind the distributor

Just ordered parts for it as I can see oil dripping down the side of the engine on shut down at the back of the cover and above starter motor

Steve

Make sure the cover doesn’t have dimples where someone previously overtightened the screws. Straighten the tinwork if you do see this.

Also - lack of visibility at the rear of engine can make it tough to discern valve cover leak from side cover leak. I recently replaced my valve cover gasket, but had planned to also do the side cover…thinking I had a leak there as well. The valve cover gasket seems to have cured all the oil in that area you’re describing.

You will get all manner of opinions on what sort of “goo” to use and on which (sides) of that pushrod cover gasket. It’s hard for me to imagine installing it without some sort of goo, on at least one side. I tend to use permatex super 300 for things like that.

My experience has been that the cover in question needs first to be straightened and then make a copy of the gasket you will use on a large piece of paper so you'll be able to make one yourself if you ever need to do so. Now seal the gasket on both sides with gasket sealer (not RTV sealer but something like Super 300 if you can find any or at least the Permatex non-hardening sealer) and install. The reason I do this is because that cover does have a tendency to leak and if all is good you won't need to remove/replace it very often at all. And if you do, you can at least make your own gasket. Good luck.

FWIW - I occasionally use something like Permatex Ultra-Black RTV - particularly if I need to build a little thickness. I’ve had good results.

There wouldn’t be anything wrong with that in your case, IMO. Super 300 is getting a little tough to source here in the States. RTV will be pretty awful to take apart if you or the next guy ever needs to.

I know several folks who really like “The Right Stuff.” I’ve just been too cheap to buy any up to this point.

This is the third or forth time I've heard that Permatex Super 300, part # 80057 is getting hard to find. I bought a jar last year for Ol' Roy's water pump installation.

In reality, it is very easy to find. A quick search just now shows that it's available at NAPA, Advance Auto Parts, O'Reilly, ebay, and a wide variety of other well known and lesser known suppliers, as can be found on Permatex's website.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/permatex-super-300-form-a-gasket-sealant-4-oz.-80057/7010206-P

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PTX...jydDR3Chcl6zuCS_Q4CCa_WKkmGjgMFGU2v8VgRc

https://www.ebay.com/itm/357584758429

https://www.camperid.com/permatex/4-oz-super-300-sealant-mpn-80057.html

https://www.permatex.com/products/g...ex-super-300-form-a-gasket-sealant-4-oz/

Last time I bought a jar….O’Reilly had to special order it. Not impossible to get, or really that hard, just unlikely to find it on a shelf anywhere.

And the OP is in Australia. No clue what you can find there.

Oh ya, look at that. Maybe he can order it on ebay.

I thought they discontinued super 300 and just offer the aviation? Not sure though.

Permatex Super 300 is still listed in their product lineup on their website.

https://www.permatex.com/products/g...ex-super-300-form-a-gasket-sealant-4-oz/

Google AI just told me that "there is no evidence that Permatex has discontinued Super 300 Form-A-Gasket sealant... search results show the product is still being offered for sale, and the official Permatex website lists it as a current product."

Thanks folks, will definitely make sure the panel is flat and plenty of sealant applied

So, would Permatex Aviation not work on the side cover gasket?

RonR

Sure...any non hardening gasket sealer would be fine, Ron. That area is tough because the drain hole doesn't do a good job so oil pools and sits there. It also runs down and will mimic a leaking rear main seal.

Is the aviation version a bit thinner in viscosity than 300? The color is pretty similar, if I recall correctly.

You will need to put on your Tin Smith hat to do this right the first time.
First you need to flatten the screw holes and straight obvious bent sections.
Then screw the cover on without the gasket and use a thin feeler gauge between the screws to find areas which need more massaging.
If you get this done, you won't need fancy sealants. A thin layer of Permatex #2 will seal it up nicely, and it will be easy enough to remove the cover the next time it needs to come off.

The compound is different in the aviation version. I can never remember without cheating and reading the sheets but I think the aviation sealer contains some form of clay...kaolin possibly and super 300 contains talcum plus some of the same ingredients as super 300 and one of them contains carbon black. Which since super 300 is black, I'll say that's the one. I don't think one is thinner though. I've used the aviation sealer with good results for over 40 years. It will not harden over time. Not a bad product at all. Just the other is thought to be better.

And after all this, remember, an old Chevy 6 that doesn't leak some oil doesn't have any oil in it. Just a way of saying don't go down the rabbit hole. You'll never stop them all.

Tiny,
Bullseye !

The side cover bolts are 1/4-20 aren’t they?

If/when I ever replace mine…I thought I might substitute 2-3 of the bolts with studs/nuts to make the alignment an initial positioning easier.

I recently switched over to studs on the valve cover, and that seemed like a very nice upgrade.

They were as I recall. I've been thinking of using a 3/4" x 3/32" piece of aluminum running along the bottom edge to stiffen and prevent any dimpling of the cover. The bottom edge is straight whereas the top edge isn't.

By the way if you have a 1955 and newer engine and you need (or want) a new side cover, Eckler's has them in chrome for $10.57 each plus shipping.

Ecklers 235 Chrome Side Cover on Sale

They also have chrome valve covers that are reduced.

I think those chrome repop side and valve covers are sold by oil companies- - - - -they're designed to leak!

But with chrome, the oil leaks are easier to see.

The worst issue with the side covers is the ends where the bolt spacing is farther apart, and there's the span across the head gasket joint at the same spot.

You definitely will need to flatten the bolt hole spots and be darn sure the cover is flat everywhere.

Jon -

If you go put a chrome side cover behind that red distributor cap of yours….no telling how fast your truck will be.

Well, so far nobody has mentioned the chick magnet value. Or wait a minute...is the hidden message those chrome covers are non-magnetic?

Given the origins of those side covers, and the mystery alloys of recycled beer cans vs recycled washing machines….the magnetic question is an unanswerable one.