The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (tesa, Bill Hanlon, Gray_Ghost), 76 guests, and 0 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,076
Posts1,055,925
Members48,430
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1587957 09/20/2025 5:17 PM
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,683
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,683
I have an old Mac double flare kit that has served me well making brake lines and even 5/16 fuel line. Nothing fancy, but seems well made relative to the cheapo ones I’ve seen.

Trying to double flare some 3/8 last night and again today. Can’t do it to SAVE. MY. LIFE. Tried everything I can think of to get it wicked tight. Went and bought some NiCopp thinking that would make life easy. Line slips on the first operation (using the little die) no matter what.

Very angry. Walking away for a while.


1951 3100
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,778
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,778
Use a C clamp on the flaring blocks to be sure you get a good grip on the tubing. I've had to do that when double flaring 3/8" and 1/2" steel tubing at times.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
If it's the type that uses two beams clamped together with wing nuts, that can be problematic, as the larger lines take more pressure. In the bigger sizes, they only really work well for pure copper lines, but you don't want to use that for brake lines.
If you want to be frustrated, try working with 1/2" steel tubing like is used for the oil pickup lines on our engines. I fought with converting to a higher capacity oil pump and the tubing to connect it to the pickup screen for quite a while until I got it. I had to fabricate a tool to make the bends. Fortunately it used compression ferrules instead of flare connections.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,683
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,683
Saw one suggestion online to file/sand the the two beams on the surfaces that touch each other. Remove a bit of material so that they don’t meet all the way up.


1951 3100
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,252
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,252
Along with the other suggestions, some oil between the swedge and tube will help.

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,778
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,778
Kevin, I've found that cupro-nickel tubing has plenty of pressure capacity, so using steel at the oil pump is sort of a moot point. C-N is a LOT easier to bend and flare.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
Jerry, I don't disagree that CuNi has the pressure capacity needed, but I repurposed the existing steel tubing from a couple engines I had on hand for replumbing the upgraded oil pump. I would have had to go buy CuNi tubing. As a matter of fact, even copper tubing has the pressure capability for the oil system, which operates a LOT lower pressure than a brake system.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,683
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,683
Originally Posted by MNSmith
Along with the other suggestions, some oil between the swedge and tube will help.

Did that, and so many other little things trying to make it work.


1951 3100

Moderated by  Dusty53, SWEET 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0