The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Tools and Materials to make Fuel and Brake Lines

57 years ago I knew stuff that I don't know now. My project then was very different than what I am doing now, but it ran and it stopped when it should.

Now I am facing the reality that I will need to make fuel and brake lines for my '54 235 in my '40-'46 Frankentruck and I am wondering if I need two sets of tools to make them...one for 45° flares and another for 37° flares.

I read through several threads in the Tool Chest forum, but I am still not sure what to shop for.

I know that this is basic...but that's where I am.

Also, which size of which material will I need for which?

Thanks!

Or you can buy a set of pre-bent, flared lines with fittings installed from Inline Tube.

https://www.inlinetube.com/products/ctb4601?year=1946&make=Chevrolet&model=Fleetline+Truck

Brake lines use 45 degree flares. You can get a flaring tool from your local O'Reilly's, Rent for 2 days or purchase. Link It'll make the proper double flares on multiple sizes of tubing. Most lines on an AD truck are 1/4", with possibly a 5/16" one. I'll bet the earlier trucks were the same. I bought a coil of copper-nickel brake line which is easy to bend and flare.

Otto,

Well, I have a '54 engine in a '41-'46 frame and I don't even know yet what carburetor I will be able to locate...so I don't know if there will be a pre-made fuel line to fit from the (rebuilt) mechanical fuel pump to the unknown carb.

Perhaps I should look at getting a set of pre-made reproduction brake lines for the truck, as those should fit. But, if I were to purchase the required tooling to do the job...I may save some money and learn something in the process. Maybe?

I just checked - it doesn't look like Inline Tube makes a pre-made brake tube setup for the '41-'46 series truck, BUT Jim Carter has them at $173.25 for the zinc plated lines and others have them as well.

One problem is that I am trying to balance, cost vs laziness vs learning how to do it for myself...

The link I posted above above was for a complete brake line set for 41-46 trucks. Inline Tube does make them for 41-46 trucks.

The fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump should be the same regardless of the year of your engine.

The price is reasonable enough to overcome my own laziness. I've purchased their fuel lines for Ol' Roy and The Bismarck. They're perfectly accurate with no fussing to get them to fit.

Thanks, Kevin!

Can one use the copper-nickel for both fuel and brakes?

Google tells me that the fuel line on a 1954 235 would be 5/16" and the brake lines would be 1/4". It also says that the flare for the fuel line would be a 45° double flair and the flare for the brake line would be the same. Is that the case? Could Google be WRONG??

The shop manual I have is for a 1940, but I don't see the flare angle called out for the brake lines or the fuel lines.

May be too easy (especially since I have all the double flaring tools in house ) but I used preflared lengths of brake line from my local NAPA on my 46. I bought the longer lengths and installed those to figure out what shorter ones I needed, that was with a dual/split master cylinder under the floor.
I also sourced DOT listed teflon/ss braid flex lines for the 3 flex lines, pedal is rock solid… not related but I have ‘54 bendix front brakes on my truck as the “previous owner had installed” a new rear end with bendix …. Huck and bendix didnt mix well on a worn out single master….

Otto,

You are correct, they do show a set for '41-'46. For some reason when I used that link the first time, it didn't get me to where I needed to be! Maybe I messed it up somehow.

You are right, the line from the tank to the pump should fit.

Thanks!

Hank's Custodian,

What set(s) of flaring and bending tools do you have? Do you like 'em?

With the longer lengths of flared brake line from NAPA, did you have to cut them down to fit, of did they just happen to be the right length?

I believe fuel line could also be fabbed from copper-nickel. I don't see why not. The fuel lines also use a 45 degree flare.

I have used prefabbed lines, but have wound up cutting to shorter length and re-flaring.

If your brake system is stock (or close to it), this page and following pages are a good resource. Identifies the routing and length of each brake line segment.

Hey Nick, If you are planning on doing custom lines in a bunch of sizes, like all the fuel and brake lines, AND you don't mind spending a little cash on good tools, then there is a really good kit from Eastwood. I wish my store had a supplier that sold this.

I don't know if we are allowed to link outside retail sites but if you look up "Eastwood Professional Brake Line and Tubing Flaring Tool" that should get you there. It is a turret style, so it mounts in a vise to make it nice and stable. It will do multiple sizes, and I think it does 45° inverted double flare and the bubble flare you see in metric applications.

I've used both the old clamping bar style and this and there is no comparison. Super quick and easy to get a good, straight, flare. I am going to pick one up the next time I do a big brake job.

I think there are a lot of copies out there, and I know of some expensive professional kits that use the same design but I can't attest to any of those.

No issues here, Tony! *This* site isn't a retail site. We're an information sharing site. That link would be helpful so share it

Thanks,
John

Nick - Just my added $.02, but I've used the Nicop line for both fuel and brake lines on my '51 with great success. It is very easy and even a little forgiving when it comes to bending and flaring.

What set(s) of flaring and bending tools do you have? Do you like 'em?

With the longer lengths of flared brake line from NAPA, did you have to cut them down to fit, of did they just happen to be the right length

I don’t recall what tools I have, I do remember after doing the bubble flare and collapsing it to a flare I used the standard Rigid brand flaring tool from my plumbing shop to final finish it….british race car days…needed both bubble and taper flare…

No, did not cut any lines, bought what I needed, it is easy to take up a little extra length without it looking wrong if you think thru your bends, 45 degree can tighten to a 60 or stretch as a 22 etc… this was one place where a harbor freight bender was acceptable, most harbor freight tools are very disappointing…. Did have to use one coupling on the rear line to get 2 lengths to make what was needed…

Thanks Hank's.
That was helpful!

Link per FatTony's description. Eastwood's Flaring Tool

This is the one I use. I like it. BrakeQuip

There are hydraulic versions that work great, too. Hydraulic Press

Oh that BrakeQuip one is shiny. There is also this one from Mastercool that I have heard good things about. It will also do the ford quick connect fuel line and the GM fuel lines with the o-ring etc. Mostly good for new stuff and not these projects, but if you are tooling up to turn wrenches for a living it would be handy.

https://mastercool.com/product/72485-universal-hydraulic-flaring-tool-set/

We have one of those Mastercool's, too. At the job, they don't get much use. It is more cost and time effective to just get a replacement piece from the OEM. However, on my '51 Burb, it has come in handy since the original drivetrain and suspension has been changed. That's all new plumbing from front to rear.

This is the tool that I own and use. It is worth every single penny tenfold. I, however, opt for all stainless lines for nearly every project (cheap insurance) which is very tough to work with but the Eastwood tool forms it all like butter. I have multiple die and tip inserts to allow my to make any form of flair in any size. The brakeQuip may be of even better quality. The hydraulic one must be new as I hadn't seen that one before. It should theoretically be even easier to use.

If you are wanting/looking for a tool to outlast you and have forever for any and all projects, opt for what MNSmith linked. If you are doing a single project vehicle and using softer line, the expense may not be worth it for you and a simple FLAPS flare kit may be all you really need.

Thanks all! I really do appreciate all the input!

You can absolutely use Nicopp for both brake a and fuel line. Use the standard 45 degree fittings and make the double flares. The old hand held flare tool (the ancient one in the red box) is just fine, for those of us not able to own a nice hydraulic flare tool! The Nicopp is sooooooo much easier to bend and flare than steel and especially stainless steel. Now, to make it look nice and protect the lines, you want to build the lines with some stainless steel spring wrap covering the lines themselves. Here is an example.

https://force10brakes.com/products/...uard-tubing-protectant-stainless-8-ft-ss

Make stainless the standard!!!!!! (Well, that's my vote, anyway.)

In the "For What Its Worth" category:

Lots of years ago, we made hundreds of fuel lines for multiple carburetor set-ups (this before so much of the pre-formed stuff was available).

We made both exact reproduction O.E. lines as well as custom lines.

At that time, researching found that aluminum, brass, copper, and steel had all been used by the original car manufacturers as original material. At the time (this may have changed, I do not know) no original manufacturer had ever used stainless as original equipment.

Di-Acro was the supplier for the best (I could find) bending tools.

We bought tubing by the hundreds of feet in both aluminum and steel. At the time a few enthusiasts were starting to use stainless; so we ordered some along with our other order.

i got a call from the chief engineer of the tubing supply company asking me what were our intentions with the stainless. When I explained that we planned to do fuel lines, he stated they would NOT sell me the stainless tubing, and explained.

At the time (again, this may have changed with different formulations of stainless) STAINLESS COULD NOT BE FLARED TO 45 DEGREES, requiring special 37 degree fittings. Trying to use original fuel fittings would result in engine fires; one would be required to machine all new fittings (this included a bunch of original fittings that were not available 50 years ago, let alone today). And while custom fittings could be machined (I have machined LOTS of special fittings using 45 degree flares, had custom tooling produced to make these flares) at 37 degrees, there was always the possibility that someone who did not know better could mix the flares with the resultant fires!

We listened to the engineer, and have never used stainless. Also, I have had to repair a lot of carburetors with zinc castings that had been stripped by someone using stainless screws. We would automatically double the estimate to rebuild any carburetor where someone had used stainless screws.

Please understand I am not arguing with anyone, simply making additional information known.

Edited to correct a typo.

Jon

Really good input.
Thanks John!

Again, not trying to be argumentative. And the information posted above is decades old; sometimes things change.

Jon

I was about to post my own thread, and then I found this one. So I will just tag on.

I have come to the conclusion that my Mac-branded clamp-bar tool…is garbage. I bought it used. Hard to say, but I’d say it’s older-ish.

The bars aren’t rigid enough to clam the tubing securely. The darn thing bows in the middle if you clamp it tight enough. Tube slips. Fit of rage induced. I’ve had some marginal success heating to tube. But even that is intermittent.

So, looking for a better tool. I actually don’t mind the bar/clamp style. I just need one that actually holds the tube.

I see there are about a million different sellers of that Eastwood type nowadays. Prices down around $80. Tempted to try that, but even $80 is hard to justify for how often I need to flare a line.

Last one I bought was from Matco. Works great for tight spaces that my super fancy flare tool can't access. The trick is, those clamps can and will wear out. Another trick is, you can put that bowing clamp in a vice, if possible, to exert a little extra clamping force. But, if the tube is slipping in the clamp, you are probably due for a new clamp.

Here are the tools I used to make the 3/16" stainless nitrous hard lines for my blower. 37 degree flare. The way it came from Holley they stuck out way to far. Clearly designed for a V-8. This hangs off the passenger side of my 292 so it didn't work for me. This was my first attempt at making hard lines and it was easier than I thought it would be. I drew them out full size on a piece of paper. I made one bend and layed it onto the paper and marked the next bend. A roll of stainless I think 32 feet long was about $40. One roll would have done it but I messed up a couple of times around the carb linkage and had to buy another roll. I still have my brakes to do. To buy the 16 lines pre flared on one end would have been over $250. The end at the distribution block is a compression fitting. I didn't like the way the distribution block just kind of hung out in the air so I made a mount for it. I also made little spacer blocks to keep the lines evenly spaced. It seemed intimidating at first. How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time. I started with the easy ones and by the time I got to the hard ones I was getting the hang of it.

That thing is amazing. I don't even see it as an engine.

thank you. I hope to have itr done this year.

Did you ever post a picture of the truck it's going into?

Here is my 53 3100. I bought it in SoCal in 1980 when I got out of the Navy. I was a carpenter doing track housing and later custom homes. This was my only vehicle for 9 years. I drove it from SoCal to northern Indiana where I live now 2.5 times full of tools and pulling 2 desert racing dirt bikes for summer vacation and at least 2 hours a day for work loaded with tools. I drove it to the shop when I started my project. I'm building a Drag and Drive truck for the crowded 8.50 second class in the quarter mile. I want to beat the big blocks in my old truck with a straight 6, roots blower with carbs and a manual transmission. The truck will be Firethorn Red Pearl with Jet Black fenders. The same red as the engine. Thank you for your interest.

That's pretty cool. When is your estimated completion date? I want to see that engine run.

I'm hoping this year. I have someone that might do the deck plate and sleeves this spring. Ball parked at $7k. Hogan want 4 to 6 months for the intake. Ball parked at another $5k to $7k. I think I'm going to take an O'reilly's auto parts store project locally in the spring . I should make about $20k to $25K on that and that should finish the engine. I have pretty much everything else to finish the truck. Retirement is a fluid thing for me but I'm done traveling I hope. I have no wife , kids or dept so that helps.