57 years ago I knew stuff that I don't know now. My project then was very different than what I am doing now, but it ran and it stopped when it should.
Now I am facing the reality that I will need to make fuel and brake lines for my '54 235 in my '40-'46 Frankentruck and I am wondering if I need two sets of tools to make them...one for 45° flares and another for 37° flares.
I read through several threads in the Tool Chest forum, but I am still not sure what to shop for.
I know that this is basic...but that's where I am.
Also, which size of which material will I need for which?
Thanks!
Nick 1940 KC Model 1/2 Ton Pickup Project (with '37-'39 Bed and '46 Frame) Taos, New Mexico
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Brake lines use 45 degree flares. You can get a flaring tool from your local O'Reilly's, Rent for 2 days or purchase. Link It'll make the proper double flares on multiple sizes of tubing. Most lines on an AD truck are 1/4", with possibly a 5/16" one. I'll bet the earlier trucks were the same. I bought a coil of copper-nickel brake line which is easy to bend and flare.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Well, I have a '54 engine in a '41-'46 frame and I don't even know yet what carburetor I will be able to locate...so I don't know if there will be a pre-made fuel line to fit from the (rebuilt) mechanical fuel pump to the unknown carb.
Perhaps I should look at getting a set of pre-made reproduction brake lines for the truck, as those should fit. But, if I were to purchase the required tooling to do the job...I may save some money and learn something in the process. Maybe?
I just checked - it doesn't look like Inline Tube makes a pre-made brake tube setup for the '41-'46 series truck, BUT Jim Carter has them at $173.25 for the zinc plated lines and others have them as well.
One problem is that I am trying to balance, cost vs laziness vs learning how to do it for myself...
Nick 1940 KC Model 1/2 Ton Pickup Project (with '37-'39 Bed and '46 Frame) Taos, New Mexico
The link I posted above above was for a complete brake line set for 41-46 trucks. Inline Tube does make them for 41-46 trucks.
The fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump should be the same regardless of the year of your engine.
The price is reasonable enough to overcome my own laziness. I've purchased their fuel lines for Ol' Roy and The Bismarck. They're perfectly accurate with no fussing to get them to fit.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Can one use the copper-nickel for both fuel and brakes?
Google tells me that the fuel line on a 1954 235 would be 5/16" and the brake lines would be 1/4". It also says that the flare for the fuel line would be a 45° double flair and the flare for the brake line would be the same. Is that the case? Could Google be WRONG??
The shop manual I have is for a 1940, but I don't see the flare angle called out for the brake lines or the fuel lines.
Nick 1940 KC Model 1/2 Ton Pickup Project (with '37-'39 Bed and '46 Frame) Taos, New Mexico
May be too easy (especially since I have all the double flaring tools in house ) but I used preflared lengths of brake line from my local NAPA on my 46. I bought the longer lengths and installed those to figure out what shorter ones I needed, that was with a dual/split master cylinder under the floor. I also sourced DOT listed teflon/ss braid flex lines for the 3 flex lines, pedal is rock solid… not related but I have ‘54 bendix front brakes on my truck as the “previous owner had installed” a new rear end with bendix …. Huck and bendix didnt mix well on a worn out single master….
You are correct, they do show a set for '41-'46. For some reason when I used that link the first time, it didn't get me to where I needed to be! Maybe I messed it up somehow.
You are right, the line from the tank to the pump should fit.
Thanks!
Nick 1940 KC Model 1/2 Ton Pickup Project (with '37-'39 Bed and '46 Frame) Taos, New Mexico
I believe fuel line could also be fabbed from copper-nickel. I don't see why not. The fuel lines also use a 45 degree flare.
I have used prefabbed lines, but have wound up cutting to shorter length and re-flaring.
If your brake system is stock (or close to it), this page and following pages are a good resource. Identifies the routing and length of each brake line segment.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Hey Nick, If you are planning on doing custom lines in a bunch of sizes, like all the fuel and brake lines, AND you don't mind spending a little cash on good tools, then there is a really good kit from Eastwood. I wish my store had a supplier that sold this.
I don't know if we are allowed to link outside retail sites but if you look up "Eastwood Professional Brake Line and Tubing Flaring Tool" that should get you there. It is a turret style, so it mounts in a vise to make it nice and stable. It will do multiple sizes, and I think it does 45° inverted double flare and the bubble flare you see in metric applications.
I've used both the old clamping bar style and this and there is no comparison. Super quick and easy to get a good, straight, flare. I am going to pick one up the next time I do a big brake job.
I think there are a lot of copies out there, and I know of some expensive professional kits that use the same design but I can't attest to any of those.
Fernie Fat Tony 1954 Prevost Bus on Chevy Big Bolt chassis, engine and driveline. A Big Bolt in disguise.
I don't know if we are allowed to link outside retail sites but if you look up "Eastwood Professional Brake Line and Tubing Flaring Tool" that should get you there. It is a turret style, so it mounts in a vise to make it nice and stable. It will do multiple sizes, and I think it does 45° inverted double flare and the bubble flare you see in metric applications.
No issues here, Tony! *This* site isn't a retail site. We're an information sharing site. That link would be helpful so share it
Thanks, John
~ John
"We are not now that strength which in old days Moved earth and heaven; that which we are, we are"
1948 International Farmall Super A 1949 Chevrolet 3804 In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum 1973 IH 1310 Dump 2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie" 2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
Nick - Just my added $.02, but I've used the Nicop line for both fuel and brake lines on my '51 with great success. It is very easy and even a little forgiving when it comes to bending and flaring.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
What set(s) of flaring and bending tools do you have? Do you like 'em?
With the longer lengths of flared brake line from NAPA, did you have to cut them down to fit, of did they just happen to be the right length
I don’t recall what tools I have, I do remember after doing the bubble flare and collapsing it to a flare I used the standard Rigid brand flaring tool from my plumbing shop to final finish it….british race car days…needed both bubble and taper flare…
No, did not cut any lines, bought what I needed, it is easy to take up a little extra length without it looking wrong if you think thru your bends, 45 degree can tighten to a 60 or stretch as a 22 etc… this was one place where a harbor freight bender was acceptable, most harbor freight tools are very disappointing…. Did have to use one coupling on the rear line to get 2 lengths to make what was needed…
Last edited by Hanks custodian; 09/18/20253:07 PM.
Oh that BrakeQuip one is shiny. There is also this one from Mastercool that I have heard good things about. It will also do the ford quick connect fuel line and the GM fuel lines with the o-ring etc. Mostly good for new stuff and not these projects, but if you are tooling up to turn wrenches for a living it would be handy.
We have one of those Mastercool's, too. At the job, they don't get much use. It is more cost and time effective to just get a replacement piece from the OEM. However, on my '51 Burb, it has come in handy since the original drivetrain and suspension has been changed. That's all new plumbing from front to rear.