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#1587189 09/12/2025 12:40 PM
Joined: Nov 2021
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W
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 1,382
I purchased newer style tie rod ends and installed them a few years ago. The truck hasn't gone anywhere except in and out of the garage for various project work since them but both rod end seals split. The source for the replacement rod ends indicated that they think the GM 3687643 seal should work but I am not so sure.

I suspect the problem is cheap off shore rubber sourcing but if anyone has a good source for such parts I would appreciate a lead.


1949/50 3600 Project
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G
'Bolter
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I`ve replaced 2 sets and both sets the rubber cracked.
On mine, it seemed the tie rod sat further down in the steering arm(s) and
split the rubber. If I had to do over again , I think I would trim the rubber seal.
I`d recommend changing out those bolts on the tie rod. The threads won`t hold up and will strip.
Attachments
tie rod 2024.jpg (99.4 KB, 104 downloads)

Last edited by Guitplayer; 09/12/2025 1:43 PM.

~ BD.
"You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker
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1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
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J
'Bolter
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I replaced mine a couple times, the set I have now are silicone or polyurethane ( Energy Suspension ).two years now and still looking OK.

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J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
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Yes, the ones on mine cracked also and one of them just about fell off. I found some old covers for some vehicle around here and used them...could have been a 1960s Pontiac or something else. Those seem okay.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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I had the ones supplied with the tie rod ends split almost immediately. I got replacements, which also split, but then ordered some from Energy Suspension. Their PN 9.13101. They cost about $9 for the pair and $9 shipping. frown They should last based on other ES products I've used.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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'Bolter
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Thank you all for the input, seems I am not alone in this problem.

I will check out Energy Suspension, Kevin thank you for the PN.


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'Bolter
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The rubber used in the seals now is not real rubber, seems like once grease hits them they fail pretty fast. If you ever go into a Harbor Freight store, you can smell the tires across the store, this is the same stuff. I have a couple old bikes I restored, the tires go flat all the time, the air just seeps out through the tubes, no holes, just everywhere. I'm not sure it should be called rubber anymore. I had a PCV valve grommet swell up twice its original size.

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Moderator, Electrical Bay
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As Joe says the same also goes with Chinese copper. A friend of mine has designed, built and installed commercial HVAC systems and large custom freezers for over 30 years. He said with some of the Chinese made products you could see refrigerant leaking out as soon as you started using them. He said it was most commonly seen at bends and any joints but could be anywhere. There was a sealant product (developed in the USA) he used and for a while the problem was so bad he carried boxes of it with him all the time.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,193
Insomniac
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A common problem. Makes me wonder if the boots are really needed especially if you keep up with the grease.


Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
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J
'Bolter
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My uncles 1911 Stanley Steamer used leather wrapped around the tie-rods, he still had a couple of the original ones. The grease kept the leather soft all these years.


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