Saw this group and thought I'd ask on where I can find a Flag Fork Crimper, looked everywhere for the proper crimper, guess they don't exist any more? Unless I'm looking in the wrong places. If anyone has suggestions to crimping these flag forks without the tool, that be awesome.
Trying to keep as original as possible. Starting to realize going original is hard, especially on the 54 GMC truck which was made for a short time before they started to mix Chevy parts into it. Very discouraging but fun, LOL.
Picture of the flag terminal, rest are straight terminals. Might just buy cheap pliers type crimper and grind the section out where the fork is.
Just to let you know, that particular crimper is for insulated connectors. Non insulated flag connector crimpers (as shown in your photo) are also available.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Wondering if I can just get away with soldering the flag terminals and crimp the rest with regular crimpers? Mainly going to be connected to the horn relay, in dash switches and voltage regulator. Cannot see what the issue may be if soldered? At least it'll be clean. Or I may just buy a crimper and cut the section out where the flag part would rest and crimp the wire. Yes, maybe overdoing or overthinking, but I like to keep it as stock looking as I can.
Yes, you can just solder it. Often I'll clamp some with a pair of vise grip pliers and solder. Where did you find the flag spade connectors? The two companies still making those ceased about a year and a half ago.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Back when I was doing a lot of wiring work, I modified a set of diagonal wire cutters into crimpers, by grinding the front 3/8" of the cutter tips flat, and then making a slight radius into the flat areas with a Dremel tool grinding burr. I could still cut wire with the area back near the hinge, and use the same tool to crimp both bare and insulated connectors. Now, I just use a set of high-leverage crimper/cutters that work more of less the same way:
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
That is what I was thinking. Assuming grid the cutter part flat so the spade end doesn't get crushed? But not sure what you mean by a slight radius onto flat areas? Do you have a picture of your tool? I still haven't got to my wiring project, been busy with work and family. Usually winter I am able to do most of the indoor projects if I am not outside fighting snow drifts in the driveway.
Instead of leaving the ground area flat, use something like a chain saw sharpening stone in a Dremel tool to turn the flats into a pair of semi-circles. You could also do the same thing to a pair of small vise grip jaws. It's a lot simpler to just buy the tool I linked, which works well on both insulated and bare terminals. I haven't seen that pair of modified diagonals in many years- - - -I think it got lost or stolen. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
