The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Replacing axle bearing and seal

This week I plan to tackle the removal and replacement of the right rear axle bearing and seal on my 1947 chevy 3100 pickup. I have never done this before and I was wondering if anyone knew of a video (maybe on youtube) that I could watch in order to observe the steps involved.
Thanks, ray durham

Hi Ray,
I can probably tell you from memory. Others may chime in with suggestions. If you can find a slide hammer puller with two inside claw pieces (they sort of look like Js) it will make your job much easier. If you can't find one, you can use a couple of pieces of 1/4" thick metal with holes drilled in the center and a 3/8" bolt and nut that is long enough. Please let us know as that is another explanation. When you have the axle removed, insert the two claw pieces in the bearing's hole, adjust so they catch the bearing retaining piece (for lack of a better word it looks like a large washer). Then not using too much force whack the slide hammer against the end until you slide the bearing, the retainer and the old oil seal out. Feel around the inside to be sure there are no rough points or stake marks. Now you probably won't have a bearing installer tool but you can use a piece of wood. Put some oil on the outer part of the bearing, put the retainer in first and then using the piece of wood and a hammer, evenly drive the new bearing in until it stops. You'll need a piece of wood sized so you can use to drive the bearing all the way to where it stops. Now put a coating of Permatex non-hardening gasket sealer on the outside edge of your new seal, carefully drive it in all the way and you're done.

This puller kit makes the job a lot simpler:

www.ebay.com/itm/406131989856

Jerry

I think I borrowed the puller kit from Autozone and a friend had a 5lb slide hammer. If I remember I had an issue with the threads not matching. I can't remember if there was an adapter or not.

Ray - Here are a couple of picture captures from a 1952 1/2 ton truck rear axle ovehaul film strip that show a little of the detail. Hope it may offer some help.

Jerry, I just ordered this.

Jon G, do you think I will need a new retainer? I have a new seal and bearing. Not sure any of the old truck vendors offer the retainer. Any thoughts on where to source a new retainer? Thanks

I used a slide hammer with the end that has the L shape ,you just have to move it around to each side when you pull it to get it to come out evenly . Take the seal out first as it will be replaced and it will be easier taking them out separately rather than pulling both at once.

I just reused my old retainers.

Ray - Several folks have posted previously that when they removed the seal, bearing and retainer, sometimes the retainer does get a little bent/deformed. But it is usually easily flattened for reuse.

What Dan said. My retainer was slightly bent and I just put it on a flat surface and tapped it with small hammer - just a few taps and it was ready for install again.

Same here. I didn't mention straightening the retainer piece because I figured it would be more/less common sense. But I have had to do that also.

Can you explain the staking process? I read somewhere that once the old bearing is removed the next step is to check for staking burrs and if any are found they need to be lightly filed away to create a smooth surface before the new bearing and seal are installed. Then, after installation of the new bearing and seal use a large punch to stake it in. Why is this necessary? Seems to me when everything is back in place and finished it would automatically be permanently set in place. Thanks!

There is a possibility the original seal was staked to keep it in place. I think i mentioned that in my first post. You will see a stake mark in cases or maybe you won't...maybe the seal got replaced with a more modern one and somebody else took care of this when that was done. Today's seals won't need staking...they're designed to be a wee bit larger than the opening into which they fit and they're made with a slight bit more precision than those of 70 years ago. So if there is a staking burr in your part, it should be filed away using a rounded file or such...just enough to make the metal smooth so the bearing and/or new seal piece won't be damaged when installed. Then apply sealer to the outer circumference of the new seal piece and you'll be fine. Important to remember the axle seal isn't under pressure. Gear oil flows to and away from the bearing during normal driving/turning/movement/sloshing/etc. but no pump shoots it over there under pressure. Hope that helps.

Thanks, friend!