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Got the old seal out... Made In USA 5565J part#. No references I can find.
1 1/2 in for the tube and 2 1/2 for the inner flange

BD - The original output shaft oil seal is listed in the 1957 Chevy Master Parts Book as GM# 8612229 with a 1-1/2" ID and a 2-3/8" OD (measured at the external section that presses into the tail shaft housing opening).

There are a few NOS seals offered on ebay, but a modern reproduction/replacement is offered as Filling Station # GR-573. The reproduction has a slightly larger outer flat face flange that serves as the seal into housing stop.

The 1957 Chevy Master parts book lists the same seal as fitting both the standard 3 speed (Parts Group 4.318) and OD 3 speed (Parts Group 4.460) output shafts under that part number.

I tried cross referencing your "5565J" number and didn't get any hits at all. Perhaps an old replacement stock manufacturer that is no longer in business???

National 9613S Oil Seal thanks Dan. Here it is.
I`d guess the 5565J is the original seal

I`ll get some lifting eye bolts. A bar to hook chains up to and a center lift I can borrow.
Picker I have.
Are saying I cannot use the valve cover 3/8 bolt hole w/ the eye bolts to lift it out with?

Do you think these eye bolts in the valve cover bolt holes will be strong enough to lift the engine?
front passenger side + right rear driver staggered.

From what I read searching the ratings on those lifting eyes, they are rated for a working load of 1300 lbs, but I'm not sure that there is enough meat and thread engagement in the valve cover mounting holes to safely support the engine load for lifting. I prefer to remove a couple of head bolts and replace with lifting eye bolts threaded securely into the block like the later 235 shop manuals recommend.

Others with more experience and knowledge should chime in soon.

What I used were the two studs that stick thru the center of the valve cover on a 216.

The four 235 valve cover bolts are 1/4" and would be really sketchy for that task, especially if you were to use a chain between them, which would put quite a bit of side load on them.

Manifold bolts on the driver's side and something else (starter?) on the passenger side with a chain thru them would be stouter than the valve cover bolts.

Or you could use two of the 3/8" bolts holding the rocker shaft on. Maybe a couple of all-thread pieces with coupler nuts to receive your eye bolts, or find some long shank eyebolts [on edit] (third pic added from Grainger.com)[/edit] that would reach thru the rocker stands to the head and thread into it.

My setup was bolted tight to the rocker stands. Here's a couple of pics. I built the leveler out of a trailer tongue jack that had stripped the crank gear.

I see . thanks!

I generally use bolts that are horizontal such as the manifold bolts so I am bending the bolt with lifting force rather than pulling on the threads directly. I locate bolt on each side of the engine, one toward the front, the other side toward the rear and insert bolts through a link on the chain (dictates a heavy chain to get openings large enough).

I`ve done it like that. On this engine the only bolt on the passenger side is the coil mount.
side cover but thats the same bolt size.

When I pulled my 235, I made a plate out of scrap steel (back of the 216 water pump) and used the coil mount bolts and the manifold bolts. With two bolts it’s plenty strong so I had no issues.

The rope was a fail safe.

I like that plate. I have a spreader bar so the chains pull straight up.
With a plate like that Id feel better.

I was inspired. Had this scrap piece of 1/4 steel that just need the one hole drilled. Will work either way to compensate weight
the best I can. I`ll feel better. Better if it was higher than the lifters. This`ll work

and its out!!! slick as a whistle. bellhousing clutch manifold dist fuel pump thermo
flywheel all off. Its at AEC.. advanced engine concepts. Can`t wait!!
i`ll have time to address some firewall issues and paint.

100% thats the one. $4.35 free delivery. National 9613S Oil Seal

Good info to put in the parts info data bank. Thanks for confirming!

Firewall painted and inner fenders attached.

before

Wow. Didn't you say somewhere in one of your first posts on this forum that you'd never done any kind of car repair or restoration before? Maybe I'm misremembering.

In any event, you've done a pretty nice job on these trucks.

thanks Otto!! No... no experience. My attention is the original functional detail. and the will to get it done.
What few people that I let see what I`m doing (I get few visitors any how)are amazed at the progress.
It was a definite need from necessity . Nobody would do the work.
Funny with this one..I used a small bottle jack to get the body off the frame. Lookout!!! Thats all I had at the time.
I just learned to weld a year ago. Self taught.

That brow ridge (Roof Filer) patch panel was the first thing I did. Seam separator with the glass out.
Self tapping screws to draw the panel tight and then one at a time back out and welded.
Turned out great.

Then the floor. I had to dissect what was offered. Cab floor. Pics!!

There actually more metal under the wood than original.

Good chance to show the grounding I have. Never too many grounds.
What you see is the braided wire going to the old frame ground bolt thru to the new floor to frame.
In case thats not enough a ground battery lead from there to the upper ground bolt behind the battery.
Thats in case there is not a good ground in my floor replacement. To ground the dash /cab.
Of course the starter has ground going to the battery but in case thats not enough because of whatever reason, I have another
battery ground wire going from the frame to the draft tube mount bolt at the block. The braided wire acts like a washer for both.

I liked the look . 1958 got the same. 3/4 flooring. I think since this one had been converted with
cabinets inside as a remodeling truck. Kept both wheel wells free of dents and paint loss.