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#1583907 07/30/2025 11:26 PM
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'Bolter
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Anyone know just how quickly a coil with internal resistor steps down voltage? When I was cleaning up my wiring I deleted the external resistor and went with an internal resistor coil, 'cause it seemed simpler.
However, since then my truck has either started on the first spin or not at all until I give it a shot of starting fluid. So, for example, if I let off the stomp starter a bit early, the engine will die. Spin it again and I can crank forever and it won't start (pumping the throttle or not, it's not a gas issue). Give it a little shot of starting fluid and it kicks right off and run fine the rest of the day and on subsequent hot starts.

So, I was curious if the coil is stepping down its voltage too quickly. I googled this and couldn't find an answer on how quickly voltage is supposed to reduce on coil.

Last edited by PapaDisco; 07/31/2025 9:14 PM. Reason: grammar
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Internal resistor coils drop the voltage at exactly the wrong time. Go back to the way the system was designed, with a bypass switch that supplies full battery voltage to an external resistor coil. The starter drops the battery voltage due to current load, and the internal resistor lowers it even more. The result is a "crank- - - -no start" condition due to a weak spark. The engineers that designed the stovebolt ignition system didn't just fall off a turnip truck from the farm!
Jerry


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12 volt system?


'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
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12V system on a 1949 3600 with a 235.

Agree with Jerry, and will put back the external resister next time I buy a coil.

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You'll need the starter switch for a 12V foot start engine. It's a direct swap for the 6V switch, but it has a small side terminal built in to provide the bypass voltage to the coil during starting. Rock Auto stocks them but they call it a "starter solenoid", not a "switch".
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
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Hi Jerry,

I'm not seeing anything on Rock Auto that mounts down at the foot stomp switch. Are you referring to the fender mounted solenoid? Rock Auto Fender Mount Solenoid

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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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You have to put in info for a truck that would have come with a 12V stomp starter.
Attachments
Starter Switch.jpg (47.57 KB, 100 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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This is one of those "things" that will not go away. The system is simple. A switch(points) a coil, and a spark plug. It all runs on current. The switch has a "limit" about 4 amps. The plug needs a big hot spark to start. 12 volts will burn the switch over time. Internal resistor coils are for different spark plugs. Most will give a nice spark, but not right away. Chevy and others did a simple work around. 12 volts to start(lots of current) and 6 volts to run(save the switch). No need to reinvent the switch, just change when and how you get current. Hot Rod has it well in hand.


Steve H
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Ah, that makes more sense. Just replace the whole contact fitting on top of the starter.


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