For anyone who has used the generic spin-on oil filter appliance (similar to what I've done or using any other means of installing), you will learn the PF-13 oil filter which used to be plentiful and cheap (I'm talking about the one that was larger and held about a quart of oil) is now not made any longer and the remaining stock is crazy expensive. There are some of the smaller ones on eBay but it is not easy to find a larger capacity one. There are however more affordable alternatives. They're smaller but will work. PF-53 for one. Rock Auto has these for about $4.50 each plus shipping. There is also a list of something like 900 alternative filters that may or may not work. Watch the thread size carefully.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Is there an adapter made that will fit on the Stovebolt and accept that particular filter? They were used on nearly every American made Ford product from 1956 into the 2000s.
The Motorcraft version is about $10 but the equivalent Purolator or Fram and others can be found for $5. There's no chance that they'll be discontinued any time soon.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
One word of caution if anyone plans on using a spin-on filter in a bypass application- - - -you MUST put a flow restrictor somewhere in the circuit or you'll drop the engine's oil pressure to virtually zero. Bad Juju! I use a Holley carburetor jet with approximately a 1/16" hole in it, threaded into one of the fittings that supply oil to the filter adapter. In general, full flow style filters don't do nearly as good a job of filtering the oil as a bypass element does- - - -the media has to be a much looser weave to allow a sufficient volume to flow through it. It's a "feel good" thing that makes people think their oil is getting cleaned up. A 1 micron hydraulic oil filter, or a Diesel fuel filter does a much better job of actually straining out the small stuff. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Or better yet, use the Frantz toilet paper filter.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
No, that Ford / Motorcraft filter isn't a swap for it although some Motorcraft and similar ones are.
Yes, Jerry...what was the old saying "bowling balls and gravel will be filtered out...smaller objects possibly not" or something like that? Still lots of folks use them. However, these as I recall were rated for 25~30 microns so they're in line with what Toyota and Subaru require and those engines as you know are built to much different tolerances than the Stovebolts.
These as Jerry mentioned are not to be used in a bypass application. As you might recall I ran the lines from my oil pump over and out where the fuel pump used to be and connected everything with compress fittings so it can all be removed if the crank needs to be dropped.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
