Hello Y'all Again, (SEE ATTACHED PICTURES) Got a 1953 Chevy 3100 1/2 ton that I'm trying to keep original as possible including the brakes. Ordered some parking brake cables and they aren't working because the metal attachment that bolts onto the rear wheels pinches the cable not allowing it to move freely. After comparing to the original that I pulled off the truck, they don't have the same shape. The original ones are roomier and don't pinch the cables. Also, the covering on the originals are meatier and the front end of the cable, where the boot goes, has a longer press fitting that fits perfectly in the Frame Bracket. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN FIND PARKING BRAKE CABLES THAT ARE VERY SIMILAR TO THE ORIGINALS?
Miguel. It looks like your new cables are very similar to the AC-Delco ones I got off RockAuto. They didn't fit in the frame bracket, but appeared to be OK at the backing plate. But I didn't use them. What I found was parking brake cables from LMC Truck. They fit perfectly and although they didn't look exactly like the originals, they're what I used, and they're reasonably priced as well. Buy them HERE PN 34-3806.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Are you using the little felt pads that fit between the two halves? That would create a little space and might help with not pinching the cable so much. Maybe they are called the "seal"? (#4 in Kevin's link)
Yes, the gaskets should be used, but I doubt they add much to keeping the cable housing from being pinched. The more important thing is the fit in the frame brackets. There are multiple instances of guys trying to spread out the clamp, only to have the bracket crack. Intact frame brackets for the brake cables are a bit like hen's teeth.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Years ago we had the same issue on our 1948 3100 1st series truck. The aftermarket cables are pretty bad and issues you all have found I had. I had the same issues with the frame bracket and fortunately I was able to fix one on EBay. The cables I also found have length issues. I’ll try later to post pictures I have in Google photos.
I also bought mine at LMC for my 52 3100 and can assure you they do fit. In addition to the issue you had at the backing plate, you would have an issue at the other end too. The cable doesn’t lock into the frame mounted bracket properly allowing the cable sheaf to slip, not a good situation, especially in an emergency.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
What company sold the cables that don't fit and don't work? We should let everybody know.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
... In addition to the issue you had at the backing plate, you would have an issue at the other end too. The cable doesn’t lock into the frame mounted bracket properly allowing the cable sheaf to slip, not a good situation, especially in an emergency.
I had to pry open the frame mount just a tiny bit and press the cable in for a snug fit.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
I’m not sure they are correct. The important part is where they slip into the frame brackets. The correct ones just slip into place, no prying required and the bolt that clamps down on the steel ferrule, also engages with the groove to prevent it from slipping. A second groove at the end retains the rubber boot protecting the cable.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Phil is correct. The ones from the Filling Station don't fit in the frame bracket. I bought a pair of those on my search for correct ones and returned them.
Last edited by klhansen; 08/02/202511:00 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
just assembled mine 24 hours ago. My truck is a '46 and parts run '36-'50 so there could be a few variations from my experience to yours. cables came from chevs of the 40"s. look very original and fit well. the felt pads are emergency brake gaskets and do make a difference in the spacing on the backing plates. Install them on the inside of the backing plate (inside the drum). These cables from chevs only needed minor adjusting to fit. One of the cable backing plates needed to be slid slightly farther down the cable. Easy fix as they are crimped on, just open, move and squeeze close. 5/16x3/4" bolts, lock washer and nuts. I've seen pics of both installation methods but I chose to install with the nuts on the outside of the backing plate.
"it's only old if you can't find a use for it; otherwise it's cool and i'll use it."