Just wanted to ask about other options before cutting and welding my accelerator rod. The pivot point on the side of the my '60 235 engine is about 9 inches from the back of the engine. On my original 216 it is about 12 inches, so a 3 inch difference which makes my accelerator rod too long. I saw on Deve's TechNet that you can drill/tap a hole in the block to move the pivot point forward, but not sure I want to go that route. I've seen pictures of some that have been shortened and welded. I was also wondering about cutting, threading and using one of the couplers to make the rod adjustable? Just looking for other ideas before I go cutting up the rod.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
What about using an accelerator rod from a later 235? I don't know if one would fit the hole in the floorboard or otherwise be the correct contour. I may have an extra one laying around you could try. Kent
What about using an accelerator rod from a later 235? I don't know if one would fit the hole in the floorboard or otherwise be the correct contour. I may have an extra one laying around you could try.
Kent, I was looking at some on eBay and noticed the end at the pedal had a round ball. Mine has a flat end that uses a pin and cotter pin to connect to the pedal.
Last edited by UtahYork; 07/28/20259:43 PM.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
Is the difference a result of the position of the pedals in the AD and Art Deco trucks and /or how far forward or backward the engine sits in the bay?
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
utah, the later pedals had a snap in ball and socket joint. that's what you saw on ebay. I think instead of cut and weld, I like your idea of cut and thread and use the coupler you're referring to with nuts to lock next to the coupler. I can see the benefit to tweaking the length until you have it exactly how you like it. you can always weld later if you want.
Larry Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY. If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.
