The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop 1939 Windshield divider bar repair

I’m attempting to replace the center rubber strip in the windshield division bar. Using a “Steele” rubber strip, I find that no amount of prying, sliding or pushing will install the strip. The Steele rubber strip appears to be an exact replica of the original. I suspect that the factory had a process to mold the strip to the bar. A process not available to me.

Am I missing something? Any others had a similar problem or know of a solution? The 1939-1946 division bars are all the same.

Try using a bar of soap to lubricate the metal and the rubber and slide it in from the end.. Wax will work, too.

I have used liquid dish soap for similar tasks. I can’t recall with certainty using it for that particular adventure, but it was likely done there too.

I'm with Sparky on using liquid dish soap. A liberal application, and get a couple of plastic putty knives to compress and push the sides down under the retaining edges of the metal cover. It would help to have a work surface with a V to support and rest the metal cover into, probably laying on top of an old towel (don't use the Mrs's good towels - ) while you push those edges down and into the channel.

Let us know how things turn out.

My first try was with silicon lubricant. I went back and tried liquid dish soap with no success. I can get about an inch inserted at most. My rubber strip has a steel insert and is not flexible. This prevents you from sliding the insert straight in. You can get things started but the slight angle of the insert to the bar prevents you from continuing the slide in.

My thought is to remove the inner edge of the insert groove so that it will lay or press into the channel. I can then secure it with adhesive or a bonding agent.

Any thoughts? Am I still missing something?

Thanks for your help.

I’m not recalling having this much difficulty with this task on my ‘46. Lucky I guess?

I wonder if gently and slightly lifting the crimp all along one of the metal edges is an option? Both sides might need the same effort, but maybe try just one side first to see if it will be enough. Some sheet metal flat nose pliers carefully “walked” along the edge might do the trick. I’ve used that trick to open the door window scrape channels in order to remove the old rubber scrapes. The crimp was reestablished afterwards using the same sheet metal pliers and light taps with a hammer and blunt steel bar.