The Stovebolt Site Forums Welcome! Welcome Centre Do It Yourself (DITY) Gallery 1953 GMC 3/4-ton, deluxe cab, long bed -- "My Biggest Project"

This is the story of "Fred" -- a 1953 GMC 3/4-ton, deluxe cab, long bed. Fred was a display truck for the grocery store I manage ("Honeybees") for over the last five years. Fred fell into my lap when the grocery store lost the space where he was parked. Before that, he was a single family owner on a ranch nearby but hadn't been registered since 1991. The truck is in great shape with just surface rust to deal with. I think the 70 years of mud, grease, oil, wasp nests and grime preserved him well!

I am in the process of replacing worn out and missing parts and upgrading where I think it makes sense, but essentially leaving the truck intact as the picture show. I have stripped the frame, primed and painted it with POR-15. I won't be repainting any sheet metal as I love the patina.

The truck's name is Fred to pay homage to the original owner who bought him in 1953, or so I am told.

Personally, this is the biggest project I have taken on. My experience is with Jeeps (I have two I maintain, break, fix and repeat). So far, many of my questions have been found here in the Stovebolt forum so I thank you all in advance for maintaining a valuable resource for all of us to peruse.

With this update here is my progress. Many of you, whether you know it or not, have been very helpful to me.

At some point in Fred's life, it had a '59 235 installed with a head from '54/'55. SM420 with granny low 4 speed transmission. The 15" split wheel 8 lug wheels will be replaced. The truck had no wiring harness, no gas tank and all fluids had been drained.

I am in the process of the tear down and my plan is, and has been, to start from the front and work my way to the rear. There has been plenty of scraping, washing, de-greasing, scraping, sanding and painting along the way. I used POR-15 on the frames and front suspension parts, brushed on Bill Hirsch paint and even sourced a Carter YF that I cleaned up and rebuilt.

Before I tore down the truck, I was able to get the 235 to roar back to life for the first time in years, if not decades. Compression test showed 155-160 in all 6 cylinders so I am leaving as is for now.

Pics are worth 1000 words so here is the last picture I have before the dismantling, along with the various stages of taking it apart, painting and putting back together.

I will be converting front brakes to discs, from what I have researched, it seems the Rustic kit is the most liked for an 8 lugger:

https://www.rusticdiscbrakes.com/product-page/single-wheel-front-hub-front-disc-brake-kit

Is there a better kit out there these days?

I also know I need to go to 16x6" wheels, which I am fine with, but which ones that will fit my original dog dish caps that came with the truck?

Based on all y'all I plan on going with a 215/85/16 tire.

I am welcome to any and all ideas, this is the 1st time for me attempting to do a frame off restomod. I have enjoyed researching here on stovebolt but know I have a long ways to go to completion.

Did you put all the advertising on the truck or was that already on it?

Nice truck. Welcome.

John

First, welcome to the ‘bolt! Nice truck and great progress so far. Glad you broke the ice and stopped lurking.

You probably are aware but here's a helpful guide to help navigate thru the different forums on Stovebolt.

Otto,

I acquired the truck from the grocery store who had it painted with their logo and such. It sat as a display truck for 5 years, before that, a ranch truck near me.

Phak1 -

thanks and will do...

I like the look of the truck with the advertising. I think about putting something on my doors.

a little more progress has been made...

I have the intake manifold ready to go on but, when cleaning and prepping exhaust manifold, I found a crack in it. Dang it. Sourced another, but need the broken studs taken out, my attempt with heat, PB blaster, drilling, ez out was an utter failure. I dropped off today at a machine shop to deal with it. Next up is to clean up and paint transmission, install fly wheel, clutch, pressure plate and then work my way down to the rear end. I did order front disc brake conversion kit from Rustic disc brakes based on reviews I have read here on Stovebolt.

So far, this journey has been fun but the biggest challenge, hurdle or question I can't seem to answer is which wheels do I go with? I know I want a 16x6" wheel, 8x6.5" bolt pattern and there are options out there but, none of those options will accept my 72 year old original and very cool looking GMC dog dishes.

Is there such a wheel out there y'all have found? Very frustrating!

Also, the original tie rod is a toothpick! Really, this thin diameter tie rod for a 3/4 ton pickup truck? I am looking for a heavier duty (7/8"?) with modern day ends. I will search here to see what solutions you all came up with.

Thanks for looking...

www.thewheelsmith.net will make 16x6 smoothies and weld tabs in place to accept original hubcaps.

Unfortunately, not for an 8x6.5" lug wheel, I have peppered them with questions a few times now...

Oh right. I remember that now. I wonder why they can't drill an 8 lug pattern? It seems like an easy thing to do in factory that makes wheels.

Nice detail work on your engine paint. I know how hard and more than a little time consuming that is.

thank you, but, to be clear, this ia a 10' paint job! I am happy with the way the black paint I used pops over the grey on the raised letters/numbers. I pondered for awhile on how to accomplish that task and came up with a high heat paint pen, worked pretty good! time will tell on how long it lasts.

High heat paint pen

For all you 3/4 ton 8 luggers out there that have converted to front disc brakes and upgraded tie rod ends to the modern day version, what is the backspacing on your wheels?

I am assuming the wheels you are using are 16x6". I am also assuming the ideal backspacing is 3.5"-4" but don't want to guess. I plan on running 215/85/16 tires.

You have some great detail work on the engine and chassis I love the lettering and signage...

thank you!

I was able to hang a few more things off this 235, starter, alternator, coil, distributor and installed flywheel. I am now waiting on exhaust manifold to get back from machine shop and the clutch and pressure plate to get back from being rebuilt via Jim Carter. Still plenty of more prep and painting on parts that can be attached to the frame.

Where are you in the Bay Area? I grew up out there, went High School in Los Altos.

San Leandro...

a little more progress has been made in that the SM420 has been washed, degreased, washed, scraped, degreased, rinsed off to the point I could paint. I also flushed out over and over the milkshake inside. Gears look good to my untrained eye, no chips smooth action. All clean now and will flush one more time with mineral oil after I run him for a few miles...one day!!

some before and after pics...

Yikes on the goo pouring out of the trans. The gears will thank you for the fresh oil and you'll get peace of mind. Good looking trans after the paint job.

Wow, that transmission oil really does look bad. Was there water mixed in with it?

I think water got in there when I was pressure washing the chassis and drivetrain...I didn't see any signs of rust at all...

When researching the type of oil bypass canister I have, I came up with an AC Delco S6 from the 50's. Hard to say which year because Fred is a '53 but the Chevy 235 is a '59.

There was a thread I found here that went into great depth about the differences throughout the years and now I can't find it. At some point the canisters were yellow with black tops or all grey or all black. Since I am a beekeeper, naturally I went with the yellow and black theme, not necessarily a honeybee's color, but close enough. Not sure if it is correct for my configuration but this project is not a true restoration anyway. If you know what color I should have painted it, I would love to know, but I think it came out great!

The Wix 51006 canister filter is a perfect fit and comes with a new rubber gasket for the underside of the lid.

before and after pics:

Thanks!

the drudgery of all the cleaning, scraping, degreasing the muck that was plastered to this truck for the last 70 years can be very time consuming but once you lay down the paint, it makes it all the worth while...

Your chassis and engine look great! Restoring anything takes allot of time, usually at least twice the time I estimated, but like you said, totally worth it. Once you marry that patina’d body to the frame you will have an awesome truck.


There is a Tech Tip that covers that subject and can be found here.

Keep up the good work and great posts! I’ll be following!

I like the yellow and black best, too. If I ever paint mine, that'll be the combo regardless of what it was in 1950. Since it was an aftermarket addition, there is no right and wrong. Who knows whether the filter was added to the engine when it was new or years later? I doubt even a judged show could ding you for the color of the filter.

The yeloow and black paint scheme was 1960-1963

Go Jackets!

Here's that oil filter article you were talking about.

https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engines/oil%20filters/index.html

that was the article!

A very productive weekend! A new pilot bushing, clutch, pressure plate and transmission are officially mated to the 235. I also re-installed brake/clutch pedal bracket. I am waiting on my front disc brake conversion kit from Rustic Brakes to arrive and a phone call from the machine shop saying my exhaust manifold is ready to be picked up. I also started in on the cleaning/de-greasing of the torque tube, radiator support and radiator.

Belated welcome to Stovebolt. I like the title of your thread. Makes me laugh as im 2 years into replacing steel on the drivers side of my 58. It certainly is my biggest project if we ain’t counting our 120yo homestead. I can’t even conceive having it done at this point.

Thank you Kevin!

Back from summer vacation, I was able to make a little more progress. Intake/exhaust manifolds bolted on, along with carb, air filer and oil bath.

I now have the necessary parts for the front brake disc conversion from Rustic, can anyone tell me what the 2 slotted brass screws are for in the brake drum/hub assembly?

Thanks in advance...

Those screws hold the drum on. Ask Kenneth Crenwelge how I now know.

a little more progress...

starting in on the front disc brake conversion from Rustic Disc Brakes, instructions so far have been crystal clear, I am just mocking up now to make sure everything fits as it should, then pull off, paint hubs and calipers, re-pack bearings and install. For those that have completed this conversion, did you have to get longer wheel studs? It looks like I might need to. Also, I am looking to see if a dual piston caliper can be used with this setup.

had a few hours to sneak in some Fred time and used it to mock up the front brake disc conversion. I ended up going with the Wilwood dual piston calipers for better braking power. I think they look great!

Riddle me this!?!

In measuring both driver and passenger sides for replacement wheels, the driver side would clear a 16" wheel yet the passenger side wouldn't! Passenger side would need a 17" wheel as it needs 1/4-3/8" more clearance than the driver side. I have no idea how that could be, I checked a few measurements, couldn't find anything obvious, got frustrated and came in for dinner.

If any of you gurus have an idea you can point me towards as to why, I am all ears...

I guess my question is what is actually contacting the wheel on the passenger side that isn't getting contacted on the drivers side??? There should be very little difference between sides, but we need more info from you to try and offer better responses.

Pictures of the 16" wheel mounted showing the reverse side (including the caliper, brackets and tie rod ends and control arms) on both sides is what we need to see.

Gdads51,

I don't have wheels for it yet, what came with the truck were 15" split rims, they will NOT fit on either side. I am trying to figure out how big a wheel I need to buy, and now, why is one side off from the other by 3/8" or so. If that makes any sense. The calipers will have to fit inside the wheel once wheel installed, correct? I am on the hunt for a junk yard 16" 8 lug wheel that I can use to help with measurements and have yet to find one. 8 luggers parts are few and far between around my neck of the woods...

Yes - the calipers need to fit inside the wheel itself. Here's an 8 lug wheel that looks like its 16" on Craigslist in your area. Yeah, it's from a "ferd" but same bolt pattern/hub fit and the offset/backspace should be very close to what you need. Can't hurt to contact the seller for more info.

Edit - And it's not a seriously stupid asking price.

geez, I need to up my search game! thanks for the lead!

I found a 16"x6", 8 lug wheel with 4" of backspacing for $10 today. Mounted it up on the driver side to insure fitment and the wheel does not rub at all, although there is about a 1/16" space between inside of rim and caliper. I also believe 3 1/2" BS would be a better fit than 4". I am still waiting on modern day tie rod ends to mount up to be 100% sure.

Both calipers, and brackets are the exact same size, I have flipped them around from side to side and the passenger side is still off by 1/4" or so. I am dumbfounded as to why.

Any of you experts out there want to chime in on whether the gap between the caliper and the wheel is too close for comfort? I might end up with having to get a 17" wheel regardless and than the side to side differences becomes a moot point. Or does it...

If there's no interference, I don't think it's a problem.

There is a reason the two sides don't match and I wouldn't go any further until I figured it out. One of the parts doesn't exactly match its opposite.

Something is either bent, worn, damaged, etc. Keep measuring everything on each side.

I figgered you'd say that!

The spindle is what everything bolts up to so it has to be something to do with that...

I will keep investigating as time permits...

The spindle may not be drilled in the same spot on both sides. Or the caliper bracket may be drilled in different spots.

Just thinking out loud here, but maybe the bracket on the passenger side got installed upside down??? It looks like the 4 mounting hole spacing is pretty close to the same top and bottom, but maybe not exactly the same. Looking at your pics, the passenger side top of the caliper looks to be pushed out from the rotor, where the driver side looks to have matching gaps at top and bottom of caliper to rotor. Can't see the back side mount relationship for the passenger side without another pic to try and further compare with the drivers side.

The very small gap on the 16" wheel may be okay, but any deflection of the wheel could cause some serious binding and metal shreiking - Ouch! Me personally, I'd go for a little more clearance.

BTW - Congrats on finding a cheapo wheel for testing.

If Dan is right and the passenger bracket is upside down, you’ll find yourself doing one of these 🤦‍♂️. Before you do, look both ways to see if there are any witnesses. Carry on.

First, I would like to thank everyone for their suggestions regarding my fitment issue on the passenger side of my brake conversion. Simply, user error, for some reason, I didn't have all bolts torqued down and there was just enough play that caused the wheel to not fit correctly. After taking some time off this project, starting with some fresh perspective, I figured it out.

In the end, though, I will need to buy 17" wheels for this truck as the 16" wheels are not quite large enough for my comfort level. I will post up some pictures soon with some new challenges I am encountering so stay tuned!!

Glad to hear you've figured that problem out. Looking forward to seeing your pictures as they go a long way towards understanding what may be going on and ensuing brain storming to see what might help.

What kind of appearance are you considering for moving up to the 17" wheels?

closer!

torque tube/driveshaft rebuilt and installed, exhaust hanging, steering gear box hanging, rear shocks installed, rear differential cleaned up, going thru rear brakes (parts on order), fabbed up a master cylinder bracket to install in original location, radiator pressure tested/painted/installed...

next step for me is to make up new brake lines, dial in brake system, parking brake etc so I can then move on to the cab and get it bolted on!

As we say in the Jeep world, I am halfway there!

Rear brakes rebuilt, next up will be forming and installing new brake lines to all 4 corners...some before and after pics...

halfway there!

Nice job.

You’re moving along nicely. Great job!

Finally, formed and connected all brake lines!

The little bits and pieces that you think you have but don't can be frustrating and slow you down. I set aside an hour here or there only to be foiled because I didn't have the right fitting(s). Anyways, 3/16" hard steel lines to the front discs, 1/4" NiCop lines to the rear drums. Residual valves in place for front and rear, all connections tied into proportioning valve and new, dual master cylinder.

Next step is to connect the master cylinder rod to the brake arm, and since the new master cylinder is bigger and mounted to the frame where OEM m/c was, I need to offset the linkage about 1". My plan is to weld in a thick bushing to the brake arm, run a 3/8" Grade 8 bolt thru that and clamp down. See the last picture of that set up and if any brake gurus think it won't work, please tell me now!

After that, I will take m/c off, bench bleed, reattach, bleed all 4 corners and, barring any leaks, can wrap the brake system up. After that, I think I can mount the cab back onto the frame before shoulder surgery takes me out of action for 6 months...

Halfway there!

Looking good.

John

I have a couple questions on your pedal adapter design:

1 - What is keep the bolt secured to the pedal arm itself? As shown it looks like it could allow for some flexing/twisting of the bolt which really needs to be rock solid as it needs to act as a pivot pin for the yoke on the M/C rod.

2 - Any thoughts on protecting the yoke ears where the one side directly contacts the bolt threads? Repeated brake activation (the yoke is supposed to pivot/rotate at that point) can cause excessive wear to the yoke which could lead to misalignment and possibly binding in the future.

3 - What will keep the adapter assembly from loosening up during operation? The way I see the existing design, if you tighten up everything to help hold the bolt in the brake arm hole and keep everything from twisting/flexing, it will then be too tight to allow the yoke to pivot around the bolt shank like it needs to. A lack of yoke pivoting could cause your brakes to be either difficult to engage or even bind up preventing complete disengagement if the pedal won't return to the rest position.

I have some alternative suggestions, but would like to hear your thoughts/ideas first. Not trying to put down your design, just looking at it from a safety/functionality aspect as any problems or failures with this could result in a loss of braking capability.

You are not, I posted the pictures and asked for comments, I thank you for your response...
My plan is to weld the bolt and bushing to the arm so that it is fixed...


Great question and one I have thought about with no real solution yet, unless I find the perfect bolt or make the perfect pin with a hole at the end for a cotter pin?



My plan was to use a prevailing torque nut along with Blue Loctite to prevent it from moving and having it just "tight enough"!

@Gdads51, you can take it from there and would love to hear your idea(s) or anyone else's for that matter...

Great idea for welding the bolt and bushing to the arm to lock them in place.

My suggestion, following your plan to weld those in place would be to source a bolt with a longer smooth shank so the yoke can ride/rotate on that surface, yet allow the use of a lock nut and flat washer(s) on the threads beyond the yoke to secure from lateral movement. That would resolve the excessive wear on the yoke.

Depending on what you find for a suitable bolt, it may need to have the threads extended down the shank (if the existing threads are not close enough to the outer face of the yoke to tighten down enough) and possibly over long threads (extending beyond the needed length to use a washer and lock nut) may need to be cut of to shorten the bolt?

Others may have an alternative suggestion or solution.

Thanks for the input, I understand what you are explaining...I will keep you posted on what I find and ultimately use...

but, having said all that, surely I am not the only one who has had to solve this problem, I did see someone modify the frame bracket so that the dual master cylinder is in the exact same spot as the original m/c, absent of that, what have others done?

I think that welding a solid 3/8 rod to the pedal and use a washer, hole and cotter pin to secure the clevis to the pin. That would be much better than using a bolt. Or like Dan suggested, get a longer bolt that has a smooth shank long enough to get past the clevis, and cut additional threads if needed so a nut can be run close to the side of the clevis. A prevailing torque nut and locktite would work, although I'd still use a washer between it and the clevis.

Looks like a good setup otherwise.

I think the 3/8" rod idea is a great one!

This forum is for guys like me that know just enough to be dangerous but really need the help of the seasoned professionals out there such as yourselves, lots of ways to skin a cat and I enjoy hearing about all of them, thanks for the suggestion...

A bit late to the conversation, but I’d like to add my two cents!

Adding to the long bolt idea, I would turn the end down to 5/16-18 making it into a shoulder bolt. This way you could torque the nut and washer down without restricting the clevis movement.

If you do go with just the nut on the 3/8” rod/bolt, I would drill a hole straight thru the nut and rod/bolt to add a cotter pin.

@Phak1, Actually, I will be using a shoulder bolt, just need to get correct measurements. This time of year is very busy work wise, so I have had to put this project aside for now. Shoulder surgery coming up so progress will be very slow in the coming months...