The Stovebolt Site Forums Welcome! Welcome Centre Do It Yourself (DITY) Gallery 1953 GMC 3/4-ton, deluxe cab, long bed -- "My Biggest Project"

This is the story of "Fred" -- a 1953 GMC 3/4-ton, deluxe cab, long bed. Fred was a display truck for the grocery store I manage ("Honeybees") for over the last five years. Fred fell into my lap when the grocery store lost the space where he was parked. Before that, he was a single family owner on a ranch nearby but hadn't been registered since 1991. The truck is in great shape with just surface rust to deal with. I think the 70 years of mud, grease, oil, wasp nests and grime preserved him well!

I am in the process of replacing worn out and missing parts and upgrading where I think it makes sense, but essentially leaving the truck intact as the picture show. I have stripped the frame, primed and painted it with POR-15. I won't be repainting any sheet metal as I love the patina.

The truck's name is Fred to pay homage to the original owner who bought him in 1953, or so I am told.

Personally, this is the biggest project I have taken on. My experience is with Jeeps (I have two I maintain, break, fix and repeat). So far, many of my questions have been found here in the Stovebolt forum so I thank you all in advance for maintaining a valuable resource for all of us to peruse.

With this update here is my progress. Many of you, whether you know it or not, have been very helpful to me.

At some point in Fred's life, it had a '59 235 installed with a head from '54/'55. SM420 with granny low 4 speed transmission. The 15" split wheel 8 lug wheels will be replaced. The truck had no wiring harness, no gas tank and all fluids had been drained.

I am in the process of the tear down and my plan is, and has been, to start from the front and work my way to the rear. There has been plenty of scraping, washing, de-greasing, scraping, sanding and painting along the way. I used POR-15 on the frames and front suspension parts, brushed on Bill Hirsch paint and even sourced a Carter YF that I cleaned up and rebuilt.

Before I tore down the truck, I was able to get the 235 to roar back to life for the first time in years, if not decades. Compression test showed 155-160 in all 6 cylinders so I am leaving as is for now.

Pics are worth 1000 words so here is the last picture I have before the dismantling, along with the various stages of taking it apart, painting and putting back together.

I will be converting front brakes to discs, from what I have researched, it seems the Rustic kit is the most liked for an 8 lugger:

https://www.rusticdiscbrakes.com/product-page/single-wheel-front-hub-front-disc-brake-kit

Is there a better kit out there these days?

I also know I need to go to 16x6" wheels, which I am fine with, but which ones that will fit my original dog dish caps that came with the truck?

Based on all y'all I plan on going with a 215/85/16 tire.

I am welcome to any and all ideas, this is the 1st time for me attempting to do a frame off restomod. I have enjoyed researching here on stovebolt but know I have a long ways to go to completion.

Did you put all the advertising on the truck or was that already on it?

Nice truck. Welcome.

John

First, welcome to the ‘bolt! Nice truck and great progress so far. Glad you broke the ice and stopped lurking.

You probably are aware but here's a helpful guide to help navigate thru the different forums on Stovebolt.

Otto,

I acquired the truck from the grocery store who had it painted with their logo and such. It sat as a display truck for 5 years, before that, a ranch truck near me.

Phak1 -

thanks and will do...

I like the look of the truck with the advertising. I think about putting something on my doors.

a little more progress has been made...

I have the intake manifold ready to go on but, when cleaning and prepping exhaust manifold, I found a crack in it. Dang it. Sourced another, but need the broken studs taken out, my attempt with heat, PB blaster, drilling, ez out was an utter failure. I dropped off today at a machine shop to deal with it. Next up is to clean up and paint transmission, install fly wheel, clutch, pressure plate and then work my way down to the rear end. I did order front disc brake conversion kit from Rustic disc brakes based on reviews I have read here on Stovebolt.

So far, this journey has been fun but the biggest challenge, hurdle or question I can't seem to answer is which wheels do I go with? I know I want a 16x6" wheel, 8x6.5" bolt pattern and there are options out there but, none of those options will accept my 72 year old original and very cool looking GMC dog dishes.

Is there such a wheel out there y'all have found? Very frustrating!

Also, the original tie rod is a toothpick! Really, this thin diameter tie rod for a 3/4 ton pickup truck? I am looking for a heavier duty (7/8"?) with modern day ends. I will search here to see what solutions you all came up with.

Thanks for looking...

www.thewheelsmith.net will make 16x6 smoothies and weld tabs in place to accept original hubcaps.

Unfortunately, not for an 8x6.5" lug wheel, I have peppered them with questions a few times now...

Oh right. I remember that now. I wonder why they can't drill an 8 lug pattern? It seems like an easy thing to do in factory that makes wheels.

Nice detail work on your engine paint. I know how hard and more than a little time consuming that is.

thank you, but, to be clear, this ia a 10' paint job! I am happy with the way the black paint I used pops over the grey on the raised letters/numbers. I pondered for awhile on how to accomplish that task and came up with a high heat paint pen, worked pretty good! time will tell on how long it lasts.

High heat paint pen

For all you 3/4 ton 8 luggers out there that have converted to front disc brakes and upgraded tie rod ends to the modern day version, what is the backspacing on your wheels?

I am assuming the wheels you are using are 16x6". I am also assuming the ideal backspacing is 3.5"-4" but don't want to guess. I plan on running 215/85/16 tires.

You have some great detail work on the engine and chassis I love the lettering and signage...

thank you!

I was able to hang a few more things off this 235, starter, alternator, coil, distributor and installed flywheel. I am now waiting on exhaust manifold to get back from machine shop and the clutch and pressure plate to get back from being rebuilt via Jim Carter. Still plenty of more prep and painting on parts that can be attached to the frame.

Where are you in the Bay Area? I grew up out there, went High School in Los Altos.

San Leandro...

a little more progress has been made in that the SM420 has been washed, degreased, washed, scraped, degreased, rinsed off to the point I could paint. I also flushed out over and over the milkshake inside. Gears look good to my untrained eye, no chips smooth action. All clean now and will flush one more time with mineral oil after I run him for a few miles...one day!!

some before and after pics...

Yikes on the goo pouring out of the trans. The gears will thank you for the fresh oil and you'll get peace of mind. Good looking trans after the paint job.

Wow, that transmission oil really does look bad. Was there water mixed in with it?

I think water got in there when I was pressure washing the chassis and drivetrain...I didn't see any signs of rust at all...

When researching the type of oil bypass canister I have, I came up with an AC Delco S6 from the 50's. Hard to say which year because Fred is a '53 but the Chevy 235 is a '59.

There was a thread I found here that went into great depth about the differences throughout the years and now I can't find it. At some point the canisters were yellow with black tops or all grey or all black. Since I am a beekeeper, naturally I went with the yellow and black theme, not necessarily a honeybee's color, but close enough. Not sure if it is correct for my configuration but this project is not a true restoration anyway. If you know what color I should have painted it, I would love to know, but I think it came out great!

The Wix 51006 canister filter is a perfect fit and comes with a new rubber gasket for the underside of the lid.

before and after pics:

Thanks!

the drudgery of all the cleaning, scraping, degreasing the muck that was plastered to this truck for the last 70 years can be very time consuming but once you lay down the paint, it makes it all the worth while...

Your chassis and engine look great! Restoring anything takes allot of time, usually at least twice the time I estimated, but like you said, totally worth it. Once you marry that patina’d body to the frame you will have an awesome truck.


There is a Tech Tip that covers that subject and can be found here.

Keep up the good work and great posts! I’ll be following!

I like the yellow and black best, too. If I ever paint mine, that'll be the combo regardless of what it was in 1950. Since it was an aftermarket addition, there is no right and wrong. Who knows whether the filter was added to the engine when it was new or years later? I doubt even a judged show could ding you for the color of the filter.

The yeloow and black paint scheme was 1960-1963

Go Jackets!

Here's that oil filter article you were talking about.

https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engines/oil%20filters/index.html

that was the article!

A very productive weekend! A new pilot bushing, clutch, pressure plate and transmission are officially mated to the 235. I also re-installed brake/clutch pedal bracket. I am waiting on my front disc brake conversion kit from Rustic Brakes to arrive and a phone call from the machine shop saying my exhaust manifold is ready to be picked up. I also started in on the cleaning/de-greasing of the torque tube, radiator support and radiator.

Belated welcome to Stovebolt. I like the title of your thread. Makes me laugh as im 2 years into replacing steel on the drivers side of my 58. It certainly is my biggest project if we ain’t counting our 120yo homestead. I can’t even conceive having it done at this point.

Thank you Kevin!

Back from summer vacation, I was able to make a little more progress. Intake/exhaust manifolds bolted on, along with carb, air filer and oil bath.

I now have the necessary parts for the front brake disc conversion from Rustic, can anyone tell me what the 2 slotted brass screws are for in the brake drum/hub assembly?

Thanks in advance...

Those screws hold the drum on. Ask Kenneth Crenwelge how I now know.

a little more progress...

starting in on the front disc brake conversion from Rustic Disc Brakes, instructions so far have been crystal clear, I am just mocking up now to make sure everything fits as it should, then pull off, paint hubs and calipers, re-pack bearings and install. For those that have completed this conversion, did you have to get longer wheel studs? It looks like I might need to. Also, I am looking to see if a dual piston caliper can be used with this setup.

had a few hours to sneak in some Fred time and used it to mock up the front brake disc conversion. I ended up going with the Wilwood dual piston calipers for better braking power. I think they look great!

Riddle me this!?!

In measuring both driver and passenger sides for replacement wheels, the driver side would clear a 16" wheel yet the passenger side wouldn't! Passenger side would need a 17" wheel as it needs 1/4-3/8" more clearance than the driver side. I have no idea how that could be, I checked a few measurements, couldn't find anything obvious, got frustrated and came in for dinner.

If any of you gurus have an idea you can point me towards as to why, I am all ears...

I guess my question is what is actually contacting the wheel on the passenger side that isn't getting contacted on the drivers side??? There should be very little difference between sides, but we need more info from you to try and offer better responses.

Pictures of the 16" wheel mounted showing the reverse side (including the caliper, brackets and tie rod ends and control arms) on both sides is what we need to see.

Gdads51,

I don't have wheels for it yet, what came with the truck were 15" split rims, they will NOT fit on either side. I am trying to figure out how big a wheel I need to buy, and now, why is one side off from the other by 3/8" or so. If that makes any sense. The calipers will have to fit inside the wheel once wheel installed, correct? I am on the hunt for a junk yard 16" 8 lug wheel that I can use to help with measurements and have yet to find one. 8 luggers parts are few and far between around my neck of the woods...

Yes - the calipers need to fit inside the wheel itself. Here's an 8 lug wheel that looks like its 16" on Craigslist in your area. Yeah, it's from a "ferd" but same bolt pattern/hub fit and the offset/backspace should be very close to what you need. Can't hurt to contact the seller for more info.

Edit - And it's not a seriously stupid asking price.

geez, I need to up my search game! thanks for the lead!

I found a 16"x6", 8 lug wheel with 4" of backspacing for $10 today. Mounted it up on the driver side to insure fitment and the wheel does not rub at all, although there is about a 1/16" space between inside of rim and caliper. I also believe 3 1/2" BS would be a better fit than 4". I am still waiting on modern day tie rod ends to mount up to be 100% sure.

Both calipers, and brackets are the exact same size, I have flipped them around from side to side and the passenger side is still off by 1/4" or so. I am dumbfounded as to why.

Any of you experts out there want to chime in on whether the gap between the caliper and the wheel is too close for comfort? I might end up with having to get a 17" wheel regardless and than the side to side differences becomes a moot point. Or does it...