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#1582035 07/08/2025 2:28 AM
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 806
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Aug 2015
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There is a splash guard on the Passenger side beneath the door step. I broke it by pushing wood wedges under it while jacking up the Cab to level it.
I see the area is rusted bad, it had previously been repaired terribly! Some kind of maybe JBWeld with a pvc pipe gooked all around.
I removed the rotted out part & now I want to figure out a way to rebuild it. Looks like I’ll have to use a cutting tool & a grinder to clean up the crap on the truck cab.I assume that part is not sold so I’ll have to manufacture it?
Thanks for advice & help.
Attachments
IMG_3294.jpeg (183.19 KB, 185 downloads)
IMG_3296.jpeg (209.9 KB, 184 downloads)
IMG_3301.jpeg (267.06 KB, 184 downloads)
IMG_3304.jpeg (263.85 KB, 183 downloads)
IMG_3302.jpeg (304.66 KB, 183 downloads)
IMG_3303.jpeg (267.77 KB, 183 downloads)

Last edited by klhansen; 07/08/2025 11:50 PM. Reason: Revised title

1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton
Working on my project since 2015
Follow along in my DITY
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,125
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,125
That looks like the rocker panel to me. Those are available from the usual vendors, as is about anything else in that area. I replaced both of my rockers. Alternatively you can buy a complete floor which has the rockers already welded to it along with the reinforcement shown in your third photo. Take a look at the photo link in my signature for how I fixed my cab. Start here and click on the left arrow.

Last edited by klhansen; 07/08/2025 3:59 AM. Reason: ADDED PHOTO LINK

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 806
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Originally Posted by klhansen
That looks like the rocker panel to me. Those are available from the usual vendors, as is about anything else in that area. I replaced both of my rockers. Alternatively you can buy a complete floor which has the rockers already welded to it along with the reinforcement shown in your third photo. Take a look at the photo link in my signature for how I fixed my cab. Start here and click on the left arrow.

That’s some fine work right there! You are a professional! I’m not of course but I’m trying to return the truck to a safe & sold body.are there vendors that you can recommend?


1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton
Working on my project since 2015
Follow along in my DITY
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,125
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,125
I'm not a professional body man, but self taught. Thanks for the compliment.

Jim Carter Truck Parts is where I got quite a few of my sheet metal patch panels.

I found rocker panels at RockAuto. They have quite a few other parts as well.

With the exception of some parts that Jim Carter has made for them, most everything comes from the same (overseas) source.

Dynacorn is supposed to be the premier brand, but i suspect if you peeled their sticker off, you might find another underneath.

Good luck with your project. Feel free to ask questions if your run into a snag.

Last edited by klhansen; 07/09/2025 12:08 AM. Reason: Fixed link

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 806
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 806
Thank you!


1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton
Working on my project since 2015
Follow along in my DITY
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 806
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 806
I have the new rocker panel coming I got the cab secured with 2 pieces of angle iron welded to the old battery compartment & wedged up to beneath the door panel. Added a piece of iron beneath the floor they the angle iron is wedged op to (if that makes sense). My welding looks much better & I plan to tack it some more.
The Cab is very level now. I also cleaned up the running board braces.
I have to focus on the right side panel next.
Attachments
IMG_3322.jpeg (187.88 KB, 81 downloads)
IMG_3320.jpeg (281.67 KB, 78 downloads)
IMG_3319.jpeg (284.05 KB, 79 downloads)
IMG_3318.jpeg (224.94 KB, 78 downloads)


1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton
Working on my project since 2015
Follow along in my DITY
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,125
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,125
Making progress. 👍
A critical question is “does the door close properly and are the gaps at the edges uniform? If that’s not happening then you’ve got the rocker misaligned. That will need to be fixed before continuing.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 806
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 806
The doors close very well after I replaced the mechanical mechanisms last year, replaced the hinge bearings.
I don’t have the rocker in yet. Thanks.


1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton
Working on my project since 2015
Follow along in my DITY
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,298
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,298
I have a suggestion for you that will save you major headaches in the future.
Since you have removed a lot of panels all at the same time, you may have some issues with fitting new panels precisely as you go.
When you replace each new panel, don't weld them in. Use small self tapping screws to hold them in place.
This will make it so much easier to reposition panels should you run into door fitment issues as you progress.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,125
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,125
Carl has an excellent suggestion. Everything has to be aligned correctly before welding parts together. Welding in temporary supports makes sense though.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.

Moderated by  klhansen 

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