The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 1946 Chevy 1/2Ton - Wheel Alignment

I was checking the alignment and the manual says between 5/64 to 1/8 inch toe-in. Mine has 1/8 inch toe in, but before I tighten the clamps I'm thinking I'll turn the connecting bar 1/4 to 1/2 a turn and make the toe-in a little bit less than 1/8 inch. Or, should I just leave it and call it good. Where are other setting their toe-in?

Be sure you roll the vehicle forward at least 1/2 turn of the wheels before checking the toe. Once that's done, chock the wheel front and rear with a piece of angle iron to keep it from rocking back. It can make a noticeable difference in the measurement by loading up the tie rods in the forward direction.
Jerry

Where are you taking the measurement? The farther away from the rubber the tape is, the shorter the front measurement will be and the greater the rear measurement will be.

Thanks Jerry. I'll "load up" the wheels and re-check the toe setting. Thanks for the tip.

Otto, I'm trying to take the measurement as close to the tire tread as possible. I can probably get it a little bit closer.

If you have another piece of straight metal, it might be easier to hold that against the tire (or set it on blocks), mark it, and measure it on the bench.

Since you have new tires, just pick a sharp corner of one of the treads in the center and use that to measure from, it will take two to hold the tape. Then use you aluminum bars and measure like you have been. It will be a good test to see how accurate both ways are. Drill some holes out on the ends of your measuring bars so the bungie hooks are away from the tire, then measure with the tape touching each tire for a third test measure.

Yes, moving the bungie hooks out to the ends will allow me to measure closer to the tire. I'm really liking the suggestions to help me get a better measurement. Thank you all!

John - Just a suggestion, but maybe read through this early 2025 thread on Front End Alignment Specs. That one specifically talks about 1950 Chevy trucks, but there is a bit of discussion about the need for and adjustment to toe-in when changing from bias ply tires to radial tires. The original specs for our trucks were all designed for bias ply tires, so the settings may need tweaking to support the best radial tire tracking/steering. I seem to recall your new tires are radials, aren't they? I'm sure there are probably other threads on the subject too, but haven't tried to search for them yet.

on rolling the tire back and forth after toe and remeasure. I`ve done the tread to tread , front and back before.
That will work. I taped the measuring tape on the tread. I found the best way for me alone was to make one of these sticks with a wing nut.
Point the tires forward. On the inside front of the tire slide and adjust the top piece of wood on the lettering or the
highest cup of the tire. Move around to the back side , same place. Place stick there and check gap or toe in.
With mine ,I toed in till the stick fell. www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthr...y-apache-1-2-ton-panel-truck#Post1577271

Thanks to everyone for suggestions, ideas and more knowledge gathering. I believe I'm all set with the alignment. I have it set to 1/16 inch toe-in and that should be good to get me on the road when the time comes. Also, when turning the wheels left the pitman arm does not touch the brake hose - the steering stops are doing their job. Tire seems to get a little close to the arm, but it does not touch.

Yes, I have radials and I decided that I would set the toe-in to 1/16 inch and not zero. I guess I'll see how that works out. Thanks for always sharing.

With all new parts, 1/16" is probably OK, as they wear, 1/8" will be good. The point of toe-in is so under driving conditions, the tires are still close to parallel when going down the road. Rolling the tires forward with full weight on them is needed for a true measurement, don't use the brakes to stop, and don't let it roll backwards, both of which can change the measurement. Does it really matter? probably not, no alignment shop I have been in rolls them, but it's the most accurate way.

After a few 100 miles of driving, check it again along with the tire wear.

Will do! Thanks Joe.

On topic question. Is one of the reasons for toe to impart some side force on the wheel bearings in order to take the slop out of the ball bearings? Ball bearing adjustment calls for backing off the spindle nut from tight to just enough slack in order to allow for inserting the cotter pin to keep the nut from coming off since it isn't tight to the inner bearing race once properly adjusted.
I am envisioning a properly adjusted ball bearing without any toe is, or not enough toe in wobbling around and causing vibration.
I have heard of modern vehicles with zero toe in, but they have roller bearings which are installed with a specific amount of residual preload which takes away all of the slack, thus no vibration.

I don't think the wheel bearings are any consideration. Positive toe improves tracking and stability in a straight driving with less wandering.

A loose wheel bearing will cause other issues like wobble and if really loose poor steering. We got some new 47 passenger school buses with a much lighter front axle then our other buses, 4 out of five had a 45 - 50 mph steering wobble. We balanced the tires a couple times but could never get rid of it, so I went to the wheel bearings and tightened them up more then normal. All five drive normal now.

Even if the ball bearings were a little loose, your toe-in adjustment would compensate for it if it was rolled forward or was on swivel plates.