Looking for thoughts on using my stock '36 radiator with a '59 235. Keep it, or upgrade? I want to avoid doing an electric fan, and of course the stock radiator doesn't have a shroud unless I fabricate one.
These trucks don't have a history of overheating problems so there's no need to over-engineer a solution to a non-existant problem. The stock radiator should do just fine. The 235 and 216 used the same radiators in the AD trucks.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
These trucks don't have a history of overheating problems so there's no need to over-engineer a solution to a non-existant problem. The stock radiator should do just fine. The 235 and 216 used the same radiators in the AD trucks.
My thought was to just try it and see, then fix any problem later if there is one, but thought I'd ask around in here to see if I should just skip right to a new one.
My engine is a 207, not 216. Not sure if that makes any difference in terms of what my radiator capacity/capability is compared to what was used for the 216's. Maybe it's the same as well. Don't know, but I guess I'll find out at some point when this project is complete! (This swap is not as simple as a 216-to-235 swap).
The biggest problem with the older radiators is that they can't be pressurized due to their type of construction. I'd suggest upgrading to a more modern style, or at least have your original radiator rebuilt to use a tubular core. Every pound of pressure raises the boiling point 3 degrees F. Older "honeycomb" style radiators can't handle over about 3-4 pounds of pressure, and the filler neck usually won't accept a pressure cap. Ditto for the heater core- - - -unless it's reworked, about 4 PSI will be max. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I'd suggest upgrading to a more modern style, or at least have your original radiator rebuilt to use a tubular core. Jerry
Sounds expensive?? Might be worth the expense to keep the original look, if I have to go this route.
I've found fairly inexpensive aluminum aftermarket radiators, but not sure I like the look. They're also for V8 swaps, so I'm not sure which direction the extra thickness goes. I can't afford to loose even a tiny bit of space in the '36. (Already have to do a shorter pump for that reason). If the extra thickness goes front and not back, then I'd be OK but still not sure about the looks of aluminum. Could paint it black I suppose to make it a little better.
How expensive will a chronic overheating problem get? Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Radiator shops where I did business used to use a special paint that didn't compromise the heat transfer of the fins. The other trick was to spray the paint at a 45 degree angle so only the front of the fin got any color. Most of the part of the fins that actually transferred the heat from metal to air didn't get any paint. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
If you replace the radiator with a more modern one that can be pressurized, you should also replace the heater core. The original was not designed for more than 4 psi I believe.
If you replace the radiator with a more modern one that can be pressurized, you should also replace the heater core. The original was not designed for more than 4 psi I believe.
I mentioned the heater core about half a dozen posts back. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Aluminum radiators are available in black, or if you just want to add some new paint to make it look decent don't flood it with paint. My radiator is stock and appears to be the original 1957 code, I have trouble in the winter keeping it up to full temperature, I use a cardboard winter front with a 10" round hole in the center to help keep it warm, original 283 with stock fan and no clutch.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
Radiator shops where I did business used to use a special paint that didn't compromise the heat transfer of the fins. The other trick was to spray the paint at a 45 degree angle so only the front of the fin got any color. Most of the part of the fins that actually transferred the heat from metal to air didn't get any paint. Jerry
Good point. When I had my custom Frankland Quick Change built at the Frankland factory They put a special black paint on the aluminum bells that they said would make it actually run 20% cooler. It's a flat black paint that is not very durable but it's not an area where it gets a lot of wear.
Sorry Jerry, I didn't see your mention. When I rebuilt the heater for my truck, I sent the original core to The Brassworks in California. They made a replacement core for it. My heater was not original in the truck, and I was unsure what year it was. It took about 5 weeks for the replacement to arrive.
I know that I am late to this conversation, but in case anyone else finds this thread in their search for information about radiators...
I want to point out that many years ago, I used a replacement 1931 Model A F**d radiator I purchased via the Sears catalog to cool a 1959 283 that was built up a bit. The replacement radiator had no problems cooling that engine. (A local shop at the time said that I needed a $400+ custom radiator to do the job, but I couldn't afford that. It turned out that my $57 radiator from Sears did the job fine.)
Nick 1940 KC Model 1/2 Ton Pickup Project (with '37-'39 Bed and what we think is a '42-'46 Frame) Taos, New Mexico
