I am trying to get the vacuum motor working on the old truck. The electric one I had broke and I want to see if I can fix the old vacuum motor. So, I took it apart and left it in parts cleaner for a week, it would not turn beforehand. Then I lube it all up, sealed it with gasket maker (since I can't find a rebuild kit or gasket anywhere). When I hooked it up to my truck, it turns one full rotation in one direction then stopped. If I move the wiper arm back by hand it will again move back on its own. Does anyone know what is causing this problem and how I fix it?
The gasket is crucial for a successful rebuild. The paddles inside need to be like new as well. Wiperman has all of the parts and will rebuild yours to like new condition for a fair price.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Mike - 52Carl's suggestion that "Wiperman has all of the parts and will rebuild yours to like new condition for a fair price." is referring to this company, better known as Ficken Wiper Service.
If you only need the right gaskets to rebuild your unit, you can get them from this ebay seller.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Wiperman will do it right but he won't sell you the parts to do it yourself.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
If yours goes only one way, the circuit to the other side is plugged up with sealer or your switching linkage is on wrong. Just get some thin gasket material and cut your own gaskets. Use the blunt end of small drill bits to punch holes and a sharp knife to cut the gasket. Works best if you have a old one to start with. If not, go to the e-bay link and get a set. Sealer is not what you want to use. Also, make sure the linkage is switching directions, the small spring must be in place. Trico used a lot of the same parts on different motors, so look for cores that look about the same if you need a small part. The switching mechanisim should click as the paddle reaches the ends of it stroke, the spring pulls it each way creating the clicking sound when the motors are running. It will never run if the linkage isn't free.
I believe I’ve read that ATF on the felt paddle helps with the flow. But someone that has done it may advise.
~ Victor 1941 3/4-Ton Pickup (in process). Read about it in the DITY Gallery 1955 Grumman Kurbside "Doughboy" 235/3 on tree w/ OD 1957 3100 - moved on 1959 C4500 Short Bus "Magic Bus" - moved on 1959 G3800 1 Ton Dually "Chief" - moved on 1958 C4400 Viking "Thor" ~ moved on to fellow Bolter
I bought a set of gaskets from Ebay, thanks for the link Dan. I also got my wipers working, I put the end of the hose into a bottle of brake fluid with the other end attached to my wiper motor and worked the wiper back and forth about 20 times. Then I took it out of the brake fluid and worked the arms until of the excess fluid came out. Then I hooked it up to my truck and it was working perfectly. I got the idea from this video:
I am still going to take it apart and clean off the silicone and put the gasket on when it comes in, so it is done right!
I don't have the linkage to turn it on, once I install it, I may have to make it, does anyone have a picture or a diagram of the on/off linage so I have something to go off of?
The linkage is just a round rod with a couple bends in it. Here's a picture of the linkage from under the dash on my truck.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Mike - If you want to hit the "easy button" for the rod (and necessary rubber grommets for the install), you can order them from one our usual favorite vendors:
You can find them at some other vendors, but Jim Carter is the only one I found that sells both and both are listed as in stock.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
What Dan said. I had forgotten that my original rod got lost somewhere in the long restoration process and I got a new one from Jim Carter. You'll notice in the picture I posted that it's nice and shiny. If you were to make your own, you'd need the length and I'm not about to crawl under the dash right now to measure mine for you.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I got tired of my original rod falling off even with new rubber parts, so I just made a rod out of TIG feed wire and bent the elongated ends so that the rod could not fall out.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission