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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 339
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 339
Sorry this is such a late follow up, but health problems for me and the wife have slowed things down. So I’m trying to get the hood gap correct and the fenders hung right and am not sure how to get it fixed. I will try and post some pictures so you can see what is going on.
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1936 GMC T-14 restro-mod
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 339
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 339
Maybe this needs to move to the paint and body forum


1936 GMC T-14 restro-mod
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,859
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,859
FAST55 - I think you may be right on moving to the Paint and Body Shop so it's been moved there for more visibility and hopefully answers to your questions. smile


~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
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"My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine"
1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver)
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J
'Bolter
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I really doubt there was much thought about gap size when these trucks were made.

To adjust the hood from top to bottom ( hood to cowl or hood to doghouse { your second picture}) raise the front of the cab and rear of the doghouse this will align the hood sides and even out the gaps. Start at the cab and move forward.

The support bars under the hood locate the doghouse at the correct angle to the cab and the correct length from the cab. It's a cat and mouse chase to get both right while getting the gaps rights. Then you need to be sure the cab is pointing straight ahead so the left matches the right, same with the doghouse, there is a lot of wiggle room at the hold down bolts.

To open or close the gaps, slide the cab forward or the doghouse back towards the cab to get the gaps where you want them.

Just remember to have good welting under the hood, as these old trucks flex a lot and the hood is always moving around.

Joined: Oct 2012
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'Bolter
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Thanks for the info, I was wondering if I should raise the cab up. I will get the cab setting so it is even on the frame rails and then raise the cab up ( I'll have to find some shims someplace, maybe the parts house or maybe a body shop might have some used ones) Then move forward from there. Is the doghouse the side of the cab where the rear of the hood comes together? Or the grill shell?


1936 GMC T-14 restro-mod
Joined: Oct 2012
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F
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Should I bolt the fenders and the radiator shell together so that they are the same length? Right now I have all the front end bolts loose, see picture #1.


1936 GMC T-14 restro-mod
Joined: Mar 2004
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M
'Bolter
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With both the Cab and radiator shell sitting on their mounting cushions, add metal pieces (shims) cut to match the cushion size and drill a hole in it for the bolt or use some oversize store bought washers and stack them up. Play with the hood first, then worry about the fenders after you get the hood hanging right.

Put a couple layers of painters tape along the edges and anywhere the metal pieces could touch to prevent scratching your paint job while you're making adjustments!

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
+++++
Silver Spring, MD
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J
'Bolter
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Its a do one thing changes another thing, so you just have to start at one end and work though it, fenders and running boards are seperate from the hood gap alignment. Sheet metal shims.

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F
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Ok, I'll give it a go this week and see what happens. Do I need to take the fenders back off? or just leave the the bolts loose?

Last edited by FAST55; 05/26/2025 3:35 PM.

1936 GMC T-14 restro-mod
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 339
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 339
Got it done, can see pictures in the paint/body sub-forum


1936 GMC T-14 restro-mod

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